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How To Install Attic Vent? (On The Side Of The House+Roof)

Written by Arthur Smith in Ductwork and Ventilation,HVAC 

Vents are important for all houses. If you have an attic, it will require ventilation to avoid moisture, heat, and air. The vents in the attic are part of the heating and cooling system.

To install an attic on the side of the house, determine the right location for the vent, cut a hole, place the vent, and secure it. However, while installing the vent on the roof, you must be cautious with sealing the vent well. Otherwise, it might lead to leakage and other problems.

Vents in the attic can keep your house comfortable, allow enough air circulation, regulate temperature, and prevent mold and mildew. In this guide, we will talk about the different vents that can be installed in an attic and the steps to install attic vents on the side of the house. 

Why do attics need to be vented?

An attic is a small space just below your house’s roof. 

You can also call it a sky parlor or a garret. Some people also use it to store a few unused materials. 

Since it is just below the roof, most people overlook the area and do not add any ventilation. 

But, adding adequate ventilation in the attic can improve energy efficiency, reduce water damage, and increase your roof’s lifespan. 

Installing attic vents on the sides of the house allows fresh air to enter the space and removes stale air from it. 

It will also prevent the formation of moisture build-up, mold, and mildew and help in having optimal humidity levels. 

How much ventilation do you need for an attic?

Generally, an attic requires around 1 square foot of ventilation per 300 square feet of the attic area. 

So, the ratio of the attic ventilation would be 300:1. 

Half of the ventilation would be the intake vents, and the other half will have exhaust vents. 

To get the square foot of your attic, multiply the length by the width. 

For example, if it is 30×50 feet, the attic measures 1,500 square feet. 

Divide this by 300. So, you need 5 feet of ventilation in a 30×50 feet attic. 

Half of the feet will have intake vents, and the other half will have exhaust vents. 

What happens if I install too much ventilation in the attic?

Indeed taking vents in the attic can improve air circulation and eliminate bad air. Still, you can only add a few vents. 

Adding too much ventilation in the attic is a bad idea. 

Too much ventilation can destroy your house’s roof and walls and increase electricity bills. 

When you allow too much air circulation in the attic, your roof will collect excessive moisture and cause serious damage and leakages. 

How to install attic vents on the side of the house?

You can install attic vents on either the house’s side or the rooftop. 

Before installing vents on the house’s side, you must find a good location. 

The best one would be a wall where you have not installed any pipes or other structural things. 

Do not disturb any electrical wiring or water piping while making holes while installing the vent. 

Installing attic vents on the side of the house is relatively easy. 

But the vent type can impact the installation process. 

All types of vents are not meant for the side of the house. 

Most of them are installed on the roof, for example, over fascia vents, drip edge vents, cupola vents, turbine vents, etc.

The vents you can install on the side of the house are mostly the gable vents and soffit vents. 

These are the types of intake vents. 

Let’s talk about them and their installation process.

Gable vents

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Gable vents on the side of the house are an excellent choice for the attic. 

These vents allow the air to enter the attic and keep it fresh. 

You can install gable vents both on the roof and the side of the house, on the wall.

These are quite large for which enough fresh air can enter and circulate throughout the attic. 

Since these vents are large enough, the stagnant air will easily get removed from the attic and keep your house comfortable during the summer and winter. 

The vents replace the warm moist air with cooler air, therefore keeping your house filled with cool fresh air. 

Gable vents work best when you position them toward the prevailing wind. 

However, the vent is not ideal during rainy and windy weather, as rainwater can enter your attic. 

First, choose one side of the attic where you wish to install the vent. 

Also read: Can I Put A Box Fan In My Attic? (Attic Ventilation)

To install gable vents in the attic at the side, go through the following step guide:

Step 1: Preparation

Use the templates available with the vent or the vent itself to mark the vent size on the attic wall. 

Use a pencil to draw the markings on the side of the house, both inside and outside. 

It will ensure that you put the vent in the marked location and both side markings match after installation. 

Build a frame with a 2×4 lumber board between the studs. 

Do not forget to leave at least ⅛ inch clearing around the vent. 

Once you have built the frame, drill holes in every corner, through the attic wall to the outside. 

Step 2: Cutting 

After drilling holes, use chalk lines to connect the hole points to form an outline of the gable vent. 

Attach a bi-metal blade on the reciprocating saw and cut the outline of the vent on the attic wall.

Use a plumb bob in the vent’s opening to understand the flange location. Mark it with chalk or pencil on the sides. 

Adjust the blade on the circular saw to the side’s depth and cut along the vent outline on the attic wall. 

Remove the siding where you will place your vent flange.

Use building paper around the opening and under the siding as a protective border and staple it to the house. 

Step 3:

Now, it is time for caulking and a tight water seal. 

Apply some caulking around the opening while sliding the vent into the wall. 

It will ensure that the vent gets a watertight bond. 

Slide the metal flashing around the vent. 

Move the vent around until the flange comes under the paper and flashes. 

Now mount the vent to the house’s wall with the nails or 2½ inch screws. 

Again use some caulking around the entire vent and level it out with your finger or a scraper. 

It will ensure extra tightening from the water. 

Soffit vents

These vents in the attic help in improving the air quality and make it efficient for breathing. 

If installed on the side of the house, it can allow adequate air circulation and prevent mold and mildew in the attic. 

Soffit vents allow fresh air to enter, encourage bad air to leave, and maintain adequate humidity levels. 

Soffit vents are usually installed on the soffits under the roof eaves, generally on the side of the house. 

Soffit vents are installed on the soffit with different materials. 

For example, you can use rectangular soffit vents for the attic at the side of the house with materials like aluminum or vinyl. 

First, you need to gather the tools required:

  • Ladder to reach the eaves
  • Metal vents
  • Drill
  • Stainless steel screws
  • Jigsaw
  • Pencil or marker
  • Silicone caulk

Now, let’s get into the steps.

Find the location

It is important to find out the right location for the vent installation. 

Get a stud finder to discover the rafters, so you do not cut into them. 

Use the vent as a template and mark out the edges and corners using a pencil or marker on the soffit. 

Do some drilling

Now drill holes in the corners of where you will install the vent. 

These points will allow you to insert the saw and make cuts. 

Cutting 

Cut within the scribed area, around ¾ inches inside the drawn lines. 

You will require a surface to drill the mounting screws for the vent. 

Apply caulk to the soffit vent edges and secure it

Apply some caulk on the outer edges of the vent to make sure the vent sits properly. 

Now, lift the vent, press it in the soffit’s cut hole, and secure it by screwing. 

Use stainless steel screws at the four corners to secure the vent. 

Tighten the screws properly and make sure you secure the vent tightly. 

What should I consider before choosing attic vents?

Consider a few things before choosing attic vents, like the weather conditions and the existence of other ventilation. 

Weather

Ventilation is not mandatory for areas with mild climates. 

But vents are very important if you stay in areas with too many temperature fluctuations. It keeps the humidity and temperature in control. 

The weather also determines the type of vent used in the house. 

Existing ventilation

Suppose you already have ventilation that is working better to some extent. 

In that case, you might not have to install any extra vents for the attic. 

But if one vent is insufficient for your house, you may install another for adequate ventilation. 

Sometimes, the existing vents need to be fixed. 

In that case, you have to remove and repair it. 

Make sure you do not add too much ventilation. 

That will increase air circulation and create mold and mildew. 

The rule is to add 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet. 

How to tell if the attic is properly vented or not?

The temperature of your house will help you know whether the attic has proper ventilation or an imbalanced one. 

Here are a few tips that can help you know whether the ventilation in the attic is insufficient:

  • The house will be too warm due to the heat, as it does not have any place to go. 
  • The attic will accumulate moisture and frost in winter. 
  • Ice dams will form at the edge of the roof in winter. 
  • The home exterior will rot and be damaged. 
  • The paint will start peeling off the wall and roof. 
  • The roofs can be damaged. 

How much will it cost to install the vents?

Vents on the side of the house are a part of the ventilation system. 

It helps eliminate the stagnant air and encourages fresh air to enter the attic. 

You can install it on the side of the house, away from the doors and windows, or on the house’s top. 

The cost to install a vent on the side of the house depends on the vent type you intend to install. 

Usually, the labor charges are around $45 to $200 per hour. 

The soffit vents will cost around $3.30 and $4.50 per linear footage. 

The continuous vent length can cost around $8 to $10 per linear footage. 

If you do not replace the soffit, the labor cost will be around $45 and $75 per hour. 

Gable vents cost around $10 to $60, with some models costing around $100. 

Final thoughts

The attic requires 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet. 

Installing vents in the attic allows fresh air to enter the house and the attic and pulls stale air out of the house. 

Some vents are installed on the rooftop. Gable vents and soffit vents are installed on the side of the house. 

Installing vents on the side of the house is quite easy. 

Drill holes and cut the vent’s outline on the wall where you want the vent to be located. 

Use a few caulk to the outer edges of the vent and press it in the holes. 

Secure it with screws.

You can add a few more caulk for water tightness for extra security. 

The steps differ based on the vent type.

If you cannot do it yourself, you can hire a professional to do the job. 

The labor cost will be around $45 to $75 per hour. 

FAQ

What can I do to improve ventilation besides venting?

You can install another vent on the rooftop with roof turbines, fascia vents, ridge vents, or other types of exhaust fans. 

You can also install attic fans, costing around $370 to $880. 

Make sure that the vents are clear and clean. Clean them regularly. 

Reference: Attic Ventilation Fans, Attic Ventilation, Attic Ventilation to Reduce Indoor Air Temperature.

5 Reasons Your Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Not Cooling (+Fix)

Written by Jeniffer Smith in Refrigerator,Appliances 

It is enough to ruin your mood when you crave a chilled drink and open a refrigerator that doesn’t cool. If your refrigerator is not cooling, you must promptly fix the issue. This article is the right place to find answers to fix your Kenmore elite refrigerator that is not cooling.

A dirty condenser coil may prevent air circulation and stop the refrigerator from getting cold. Clean the condenser coil with a vacuum to fix the issue. A refrigerator may also not cool due to a faulty temperature control thermostat. To fix the issue, you must replace the thermostat.

There can be other issues that prevent your Kenmore Elite refrigerator from cooling. In this article, I will help you figure out the cause, and you will also know the steps to fix the issue. So, stick with the article till the end.

Causes of Kenmore refrigerator not cooling

If your refrigerator is not cooling, there may be several reasons.

Here are some common causes and fixes to make your refrigerator start cooling again. 

1. Dirty condenser coils

Condenser coils are located at the base grill of the refrigerator under the refrigerator.

The role of the condenser coil is to cool the refrigerator’s interior. 

It maintains the temperature inside the fridge and freezer by pushing the heat outside the refrigerator.

If the condenser coils accumulate with dirt and debris, they will not expel the heat to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator.

If your refrigerator is not cooling, it may be due to the dirty condenser coils. 

To fix this issue, check the refrigerator’s condenser coil. 

You must replace the refrigerator’s condenser coil if they are completely damaged. 

Follow the steps below to clean the condenser coils on the refrigerators:

  • Start by unplugging the refrigerator’s power cord from the electric outlet. You don’t have to unload content inside the refrigerator while doing this process, as the refrigerator will retain its temperature during this short duration while cleaning the condenser coils.
  • Move your refrigerator away from the wall to access the back side of the refrigerator. As refrigerators are heavy appliances, don’t try to move them alone. Consider seeking help from an assistant to move the refrigerator.
  • Access the back panel of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver, remove the screws securing the back panel. Disconnect the back panel and keep it in a safer place.
  • You can locate the condenser coil in the left corner. Inspect the condenser coil for any visible dirt and dust.
  • You will need a vacuum and a soft bristle brush to remove the overlapping dust and debris.
  • Brush the condenser coils’ top, bottom, and sides to remove the dust. Use a vacuum to suck the dust deposited inside the condenser coil.
  • If you find the condenser coil damaged, replace it.
  • Reattach the back panel to the refrigerator by securing it with the screws.
  • Move the refrigerator to its original position.
  • Plug in the refrigerator by connecting the power cord to the electric outlet. 

2. Condenser fan motor issues

You can find the Condenser fan motors at the bottom of the refrigerator.

You can locate it behind the rear access panel below the compressor and the condenser coils. 

The important role of condenser fan motors is to absorb the air from the rear side of the refrigerator to circulate the cool air to the compressor and condenser coil. 

After cooling the compressor and condenser coils, the condenser fan motor also circulates the cold air throughout the grill.

If the condenser fan motor is damaged, your refrigerator may not cool. 

Check the condenser fan blades to determine if the motor is worn out.

You can check it by spinning the condenser fan blades with your hands; if there is any obstruction while rotating the fan blades, the motor is worn out. 

You should also check the condenser fan motor with the multimeter to check the continuity.

If the motor doesn’t show continuity, you must replace it. 

To fix this issue, you need to replace the condenser fan motor. 

Follow the steps below to replace the condenser fan motor:

  • Unplug the refrigerator by removing the power cord from the electric outlet.
  • Move your refrigerator away from its original position to access the rear panel.
  • Locate the rear panel in the refrigerator. Remove the screws securing the rear panel with the refrigerator using a screwdriver. Disconnect the rear panel and keep it aside.
  • Locate the front base screw securing the base of the fan motor bracket.
  • Using a wrench, remove the front base screw from the base of the fan motor bracket.
  • Locate the mounting screws at the upper side, which holds the condenser fan motor.
  • Remove the mounting screws to disconnect the condenser fan motor.
  • Disconnect the condenser fan motor from the bracket and disconnect the wire harness.
  • Now, you can pull the fan motor completely.
  • Remove the fan blade from the bracket.
  • Prepare the new condenser fan motor, place it in the bracket, and secure it with the mounting screws.
  • Connect the wire harness and fix the blades with the new motor.
  • Reconnect the bracket screws at the base of the refrigerator.
  • Reconnect the rear panel by securing it with the screws. 
  • Move the refrigerator to its original position.
  • Reconnect the refrigerator to the electric outlet or turn on the circuit breaker. 

3. Faulty temperature control thermostat

The thermostat regulates the temperature of the refrigerator’s interior and monitors the cooling mechanism by turning it on and off the compressor. 

It is regulated by the sensor, which signals the temperature status of the refrigerator.

If the sensor senses the refrigerator is too cold, a thermostat will switch off the compressor. 

If it senses the refrigerator has not reached the optimum temperature, a thermostat will turn on the compressor.

If the temperature control thermostat fails, the temperature regulation of the refrigerator will be disturbed. 

You can try adjusting the thermostat knob to the desired temperature.

Adjusting the thermostat reading will bring the refrigerator back to cold condition if the thermostat is not damaged. 

If not, you must replace the thermostat, which is located inside the refrigerator. 

Follow the steps below to replace the temperature control thermostat from your Kenmore elite refrigerator:

  • Unplug the refrigerator from the electric outlet or turn off the circuit breaker if your refrigerator is hard-wired.
  • Suppose you load the refrigerator with highly perishable food. In that case, it is advisable to unload the content from the refrigerator. The refrigerator will stay disconnected for 30-40 minutes when replacing the thermostat, so the content inside the refrigerator may spoil.
  • Locate the thermostat adjuster knob. Pull it and place it in a safer place.
  • Locate the control housing of the refrigerator. The location of the control housing differs based on the model of the Kenmore refrigerator.
  • Disconnect the control housing from the refrigerator by removing the screws that are securing it with the upper compartment of the refrigerator. Hold the control housing so it won’t fall when you remove the last screw.
  • You can locate the temperature control thermostat inside the control housing. Release it from the bracket holding it in place and disconnect the wire harness. If possible, capture the wire connections on your phone for future reference.
  • Purchase the new temperature control thermostat following the model of your refrigerator.
  • Attach the new temperature control thermostat to the control housing. Secure it with the brackets and reconnect the wire you disconnected by referring to the photo you took.
  • Reattach the control housing to the refrigerator and secure it with the screws using a screwdriver.
  • Reattach the knob inside the refrigerator and check if it is positioned correctly.
  • Plug in the refrigerator by connecting the power cord to the electric outlet or turn on the circuit breaker if your refrigerator is hard-wired. 

4. Faulty temperature control board

A temperature control board is originally known as the main control board. 

You can find this temperature control board on the back side of the refrigerator, exactly near the compressor. 

A temperature control board will initiate the cooling mechanism of the refrigerator by monitoring the sensor and initiating the functions of the compressor and the condenser fans to circulate the cool air throughout the refrigerator. 

If the temperature control board is faulty, the entire cooling mechanism will get hindered.

If the temperature control board is faulty, you must replace it. 

Follow the steps below to replace the temperature control board:

  • Unplug the refrigerator from the electric outlet. Turn off the circuit breaker if your refrigerator is hard-wired.
  • Turn off the water supply valve of the ice maker. 
  • Disconnect the water supply line. As the water supply pipe is located at the back side of the refrigerator, you need to move the refrigerator forward to access it. If the refrigerator has a wheel, you can move it by yourself or else seek help from your assistant to move the refrigerator.
  • Locate the water supply line at the back side of the refrigerator. Using a wrench, remove the nut securing the water supply line.
  • Remove the back panel of the refrigerator by removing the screws attaching the panel to the refrigerator.
  • You can see a cover enclosing the temperature control board housing. Remove the screws securing the cover to the housing using a screwdriver. 
  • Take a digital picture of the temperature control connections for future reference. Or you can paste the tags on the wires.
  • Disconnect the temperature control board by removing the screws and locking clips.
  • Prepare the new control board to replace.
  • Place the new control board in the housing unit and secure it with the mounting screws and the locking clips.
  • Reconnect the wires by referring to the digital photo you took.
  • Reconnect the temperature control board cover by securing it with the screws.
  • Reattach the back panel of the refrigerator and secure it with the screws using a screwdriver.
  • Reattach the water supply line pipe to the refrigerator and tighten it with the nut.
  • Plug in the refrigerator or turn on the circuit breaker if your refrigerator is hard-wired.
  • Turn on the water supply valve to the ice maker. 

5. Damper control issues

The air damper is inside the refrigerator, which facilitates the entry of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment by opening and closing the doors.

If the damper is stuck closed, cold air from the freezer won’t circulate throughout the refrigerator.

Resulting in the refrigerator that doesn’t get cold enough. 

To fix this issue, you must replace the damper. 

Follow the steps below to replace the damper control in your refrigerator: 

  • Disconnect the power supply from the refrigerator by removing the power cord or turning off the circuit breaker.
  • Proceed by turning off the water supply valve supplying water to the water pipeline located at the back side of the refrigerator.
  • Locate the control box in the top compartment of your refrigerator. 
  • Disconnect the control box by removing the screws which secure it to the refrigerator. To disconnect the control box completely, you need to disconnect the wire harness, yellow wires, and the temperature sensor.
  • Disconnect the bulb by twisting it with your hands.
  • Place the control box in a comfortable place. 
  • You can find the damper assembly on the left side of the control box.
  • Pull the damper assembly from the control box and disconnect the notch and the grounding wire.
  • Remove the door of the damper assembly from the control box.
  • Replace the new damper assembly with the control box. Reconnect the notch and the grounding wire to the new damper assembly.
  • Reinstall the control box in the refrigerator by placing the temperature sensor in the slot and connecting the wires.
  • And pull the control box to its place and secure it with the screws. Reattach the bulb by twisting it tight with its holder.
  • Plug in the refrigerator or turn on the circuit breaker. Turn on the water supply and reattach the supply line at the back side of the refrigerator. 

How do I reset the Kenmore refrigerator compressor?

If your Kenmore refrigerator is not cooling, you can also try resetting the compressor.

A reset can help your refrigerator return to its original cooling condition. 

Follow the steps below to reset the refrigerator’s compressor: 

  • Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
  • Let it stay disconnected for at least 10 minutes.
  • Switch the freezer and refrigerator temperatures to zero by adjusting the reading in the control panel.
  • Plug in the refrigerator by connecting the power cord to the electric outlet. 
  • As a next step, adjust the temperature of the freezer and the refrigerator to 40°F.

How long will the Kenmore Elite refrigerator take to start cooling again? 

When you adjust the temperature or replace the faulty parts, a refrigerator will start cooling again for at least 24 hours.

Final thoughts

A refrigerator not cooling, is mostly due to the dirty condenser coil. You can fix the issue by cleaning the condenser coil using a vacuum. Check the condenser fan motors if your refrigerator is not cooling even after cleaning the condenser coil. 

You can check it by spinning the fan blades with your hands; if the fan doesn’t spin without obstruction, you must replace the condenser fan motor. Go through the causes I mentioned in the article to figure out the issue in your refrigerator. 

Once you have figured out the cause, follow the step to fix the refrigerator issue. Seek help from a professional if you find the steps too technical.

Related Articles:

Reference: Kenmore Refrigerator Official Manual.

10 Causes Of Horizontal Lines On TV Screens (+Fix)

Written by Jeniffer Smith in TV,Appliances 

A common problem with all kinds of TV is watching horizontal lines. If you are unwinding after a long day, turning the TV on to only find horizontal lines, I know how annoyed you’ll get. So, this article is here to help.

You can see horizontal lines if the TV LED/LCD panel underwent some physical damage recently. You will need to call for professional help if this is the case. Another reason can be loose wire connections, where you must reconnect the wires properly to fix the horizontal lines.

If you’ve been getting horizontal lines on your TV and don’t know what to do about it, this article will help you find the possible issues and also help you fix them. So, keep reading.

Why do I see horizontal lines on my TV? (10 reasons)

There can be multiple reasons for seeing horizontal lines on your TV screen.

And I know you would want to fix it fast so you wouldn’t miss watching your favorite shows.

Let’s find out all the possible reasons that can make you see horizontal lines on the TV screen.

We will discuss the fixes after understanding the potential issues.

1. Loose connections

More often than not, the wires connected to your TV can get loose.

If you moved the TV recently or someone in your family moved or bumped into it, the wires can get loose.

You might see horizontal lines in such a case until you fix the issue.

2. Physical damage

If your TV had fallen off from its place or it bumped into anything while you or anyone else was moving it, the LED or LCD might have undergone some physical damage.

This can lead to you seeing horizontal lines on the display screen when you turn on the TV.

3. Outdated software

Sometimes, the software of your TV might be outdated, due to which you might be seeing horizontal lines.

Especially if the graphics driver is outdated, the chances of seeing horizontal lines are high.

You will need to update the software to fix this issue.

4. Overheating

It can get overheated if you’ve been turning on the TV non-stop.

Any appliance will get overheated if you overuse it.

And you can see horizontal lines if your TV is overheated.

5. External devices

Another reason behind horizontal lines on your TV screen might be the interference of external devices.

You might have headphones, speakers, or game consoles plugged into your TV that can cause interruptions and lead to horizontal lines.

Ensure that these are connected properly.

Also, ensure the game console’s screen resolution matches your TV.

6. Resolution mismatch

You might be watching a channel that doesn’t match the TV’s resolution.

This can lead to horizontal lines on your TV screen.

Check other channels and see if the problem persists.

7. Incorrect input mode

An incorrect input mode can cause horizontal lines on the TV.

A TV comes with many input modes, such as DVD, HDMI, Side AV, HDMI, etc.

You might be playing the TV with the wrong input mode, which can lead to seeing horizontal lines.

8. Dust accumulation

Dust accumulation can also prevent your TV from functioning properly and cause horizontal lines.

If any part of your TV, especially internal, has dust and dirt, it can make the TV overheat and cause horizontal lines.

9. Faulty T-Con Board

A major reason people see horizontal or vertical lines on their TV screens is a faulty or damaged T-Con board.

This small board inside the TV is responsible for converting the signal to the picture display.

So, if this small part is not working, you might see those horizontal lines.

10. Electricity issues

Minor electricity or power glitches can cause those horizontal lines you find on your TV.

But you can fix this easily.

How do I fix the horizontal lines on my TV?

Now that we have discussed the possible causes, let’s understand how we can fix these issues and get your TV back to functioning again.

1. Check the cables and wires

The first step when you see horizontal lines on the TV screen is checking the TV and its cables.

If you find any loose cable or wire, it might be causing the horizontal lines.

You can fix this by unplugging those cables and plugging them back properly, so they are not loose anymore.

2. Check if there’s any physical damage

If your TV has any physical damage, some internal parts might get broken, due to which you might see horizontal lines.

You might also find that the screen is damaged.

You might see cracks on the TV screen in these cases.

These can happen if you have children or pets in the house who might accidentally damage the TV.

If this is the case, you will need professional help to fix the TV.

Call customer service or hire a professional to get it fixed.

3. Update the software

Using the TV with outdated software can lead to various issues, including horizontal lines on the screen.

Consider updating the TV software if you haven’t done so.

Here’s how you do it:

  • Navigate to the “Settings” page using your remote.
  • Now select the “Support” option.
  • Under that, you will see the “Software Update” option. Select that.
  • And then go for Update now or auto-update.

4. Turn off your TV

Didn’t I tell you about overheating? It happens when you keep the TV on for long hours.

If you touch the TV, you’ll understand if it is overheating.

In such a scenario, turn the TV off and give it some rest.

TVs cannot tolerate too high temperatures, which happens when you overuse them.

So, avoid overusing it and remember to give it rest to prevent horizontal lines on the screen.

5. Check the external devices

External devices like headphones or set-top boxes can also influence the functioning of your TV.

If these devices are not corrected properly or if the devices are at fault, you might see horizontal lines on your TV.

Try disconnecting these devices and check if the issue is fixed.

If it is, the device might be at fault.

6. Conduct a picture test

This might not be available for all TVs, but you can do a picture test if you have a Samsung TV.

Here are the steps:

  • Press the “Home” button on the remote.
  • Now select the “Smart Hub” option.
  • From there, go to the “Support” option.
  • Now you will see the “Device care” option. Select it.
  • Now the TV will do a scan, so wait for it to finish and do not press anything.
  • Now select the “Self-diagnosis” option.
  • Now you’ll see “Picture Test.” Select it.

This can help fix the issue of the horizontal lines on the TV screen.

7. Change the input mode

As I mentioned earlier, the TV comes with different input sources.

Try changing the input mode and see if this fixes the horizontal lines.

For example: If your TV is on HDMI 1, try changing it to HDMI 2.

Don’t forget to change the source in the settings using your TV remote.

8. Clean the dust

I remember experiencing a problem with my TV, which got fixed after I cleaned all the dust and dirt.

I couldn’t imagine that dust might be an issue, but it is!

Since dust can cause the TV to overheat, you should clean them up.

And by cleaning, I don’t mean cleaning the surface areas.

I am talking about cleaning the internal parts of the TV.

Here’s how you can do it but remember to be careful:

  • Place the TV on a table or the floor so you can see the back panel.
  • Take a screwdriver and unscrew it.
  • Use a vacuum cleaner to clean all the dust.

9. Check the T-Con board

If the T-Con board is faulty, your TV will not function properly, and you might see horizontal lines.

To check and replace the board, you will need professional help.

But if you decide to do it yourself, here’s how you go about it:

  • Turn off and unplug the TV.
  • Place the TV on a table or floor.
  • Unscrew the back of the TV using a screwdriver.
  • The placement of the T-Con board will vary based on your TV brand and model. I suggest you take a look at the user manual so you can identify it.
  • First, you need to disconnect the cables from the board by pulling them gently. Disconnect the LVD and the ribbon cables.
  • Now unscrew the screws that hold the T-Con board in place.
  • Take out the T-Con board and place the new one in its place.
  • Screw the board in place.
  • Reconnect all the cables gently.
  • Screw the TV’s back panel, plug it in, and turn it on to check if it is working.

10. Restart the TV

Since minor power glitches can lead to horizontal lines, you can just restart the TV to fix this issue.

Here’s how you restart the TV:

  • Turn the tv off.
  • Unplug it from the power outlet.
  • Press the power button for 10 seconds.
  • Plug the TV back and turn it on to check if the issue is fixed.

11. Factory reset

A factory reset can fix many internal issues that make your TV go haywire and show you the horizontal lines.

How you reset your TV will depend on its brand and model.

I have mentioned the reset process for some brands, but you can also check the user manual of your TV.

If you have an LG TV:

  • Press the “Menu” button on the remote.
  • Now go to the “All settings” option.
  • Now you will see the “General” button. Select it.
  • Keep scrolling till you find the “Reset to initial settings” option.
  • Select it, and it will reset the TV.

If you have a Sony TV:

  • Press the “Home” button on the remote.
  • Scroll till you find the “Settings” option. Select it.
  • Now select the “Storage and reset” option.
  • You will then see the “Restore Factory Settings” option.
  • Select the “Erase all data” option, which will reset the TV.

If you have a Samsung TV:

  • Press the “Menu” button on your remote.
  • Find and select the “Support” option.
  • Now choose “Self Diagnosis.”
  • And then select “Reset.”
  • You might need to enter a 4-digit pin to confirm the reset.

If you have a Phillips TV:

  • Press the “Home” button on the remote.
  • Now select the “Settings” icon that you see at the right of the TV screen.
  • Now, find the “General settings” option.
  • Select and look for the “Factory settings” option.
  • Choose the “Reset” option and press “OK.”

Final words

I know it is disturbing to find horizontal lines on your TV, and you would want to fix this as soon as possible. Inspect your TV thoroughly and check all the possible causes mentioned in this article.

In minor cases, you can fix the issue by resetting the TV, restarting it, cleaning it, or fixing the cables and external devices. But if there’s any major issue, you should seek professional help.

Related Articles:

FAQ

How much does it cost to fix horizontal lines on TV?

If your TV has some major issue you cannot fix yourself, you will need to call for professional help.

Or, there might be some issue with any TV part, like the T-Con board, where you need to replace it.

These will require some dollars; usually, the cost of fixing horizontal lines on TV is between $150 and $ 400.

Reference: LG Official Manual, Samsung Official Help.

How Long Can A Furnace Vent Pipe Be?

Written by Arthur Smith in Ductwork and Ventilation,HVAC 

Furnaces burn fuels like propane or natural gas to operate. The unit releases carbon monoxide and other toxic gasses when the fuel burns. It will need an exhaust or furnace vent with enough length and diameter to release these gasses properly. 

The standard length of the furnace vent pipe is 15 feet. The maximum length can be 150 feet vertical and 50 feet horizontal. The vent pipe should have a vent angle of 1.25 inches per foot to pull out the hot air from the bottom. However, the length can vary depending on the size of the furnace.

Knowing the right size and length of the vent pipe is vital as it helps pull the toxic gasses out of the furnace. This guide will share with you the importance of the right vent pipe length and also help you know the different types of vent and vent pipes.

What is a furnace vent?

The furnaces and other heating systems burn fuel, such as propane or natural gas. 

When the fuel burns, it releases harmful carbon monoxide and many toxic combustion gasses and substances. 

The gas will need to be released from the furnace; that is when you need the furnace vent pipe to let the gasses escape. 

The furnace vent pipe is responsible for exhausting combustion gases from the furnace. 

The vents come in various shapes, types, and sizes.

The first one is a flue that is a pipe. 

The pipe goes up through the roof and out of the chimney or through the walls to the side of the house. 

The flue helps the exhaust gasses to travel through and get out of it. 

The second furnace vent is the draft fan. 

It is a fan found in the furnace close to the heat exchange. 

The draft fan takes the hot air out and pushes it out of the furnace. 

How long should the furnace vent pipe be?

When it comes to fixing the vent pipe in the furnace, the length and size of the pipe are very important. 

A proper pipe length and size will allow the furnace to release the toxic gasses without any delay or clogging.

Finding the right vent size for the furnace is quite critical. 

It is critically determined by the National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) and the National Fuel Gas Code (NDGC). 

You must check out both resources before deciding on a particular vent length and size. 

The size can change depending on the furnace type and size in BTUs. 

The right diameter of the vent pipe depends on the distance between the exhaust outlet and the exit point on the roof or wall. 

So, you need to get the right size based on horizontal and vertical distance. 

Generally, it is suggested to use a vent pipe around 15 feet in the vertical direction. 

But, it will change based on factors. 

15 feet is considered the standard vent pipe length.

If you use a one-pipe system, the vent pipe length of the furnace should be 5 feet.

In the case of a two-pipe system, you need a 10 feet long furnace vent pipe. 

The maximum length of a vent pipe can be up to 150 feet, 100 feet vertically, and 50 feet horizontally. 

The diameter of the vent pipe should measure around 18 to 24 inches. The minimum size should be 3 inches. 

The minimum measurement is because of the small furnaces up to 78k BTUs and 46k BTUs. 

The maximum vent pipe diameter is 24 inches. 

It is generally applied to the Type B double-type vents connected to the single Category One gas furnace. 

The maximum diameter of the vent pipe also applies only to the natural vent furnaces rated around 8,100,000 BTUs or draft-induced furnaces around 752,000 to 13,354,000 BTUs. 

What happens if the vent pipe length is too small?

The vent pipe for the furnace should not be very small. 

As you know, the furnace will need to release toxic carbon monoxide and other harmful gasses. 

So to release these toxic substances, it needs a vent pipe. 

The pipe’s passageway must be big and long enough to allow the gasses to escape properly. 

Suppose the pathway in the vent pipe is very small compared to what the gasses need. 

In that case, the vent motor inside the furnace cannot generate enough pressure for the exhaust of the flue gasses. 

It will get clogged due to too much gas, preventing it from escaping. 

Even if it does escape, the toxins will take a lot of time to get out through the pipe. 

As a result, the furnace will trigger a safety pressure switch which will shut down the furnace. 

So, you need to ensure that the vent pipe is long enough and big in diameter so that the gasses can escape easily without clogging. 

What happens if the vent pipe is too big or too long?

If the vent pipe of your furnace is too big or too long, the pipe will take forever to move the air out of the unit. 

Do not use very long or very big pipes. 

15 feet for a vertical length measurement is the standard size. 

But, it can change based on the furnace size. 

The maximum length should be 100-150 feet vertical and 50 feet horizontal. 

It will help the toxic substances get out of the pipe properly without being too late. 

Should the furnace vent be sloped?

The vent pipe can be slightly sloped if you want the venting system to work properly. 

The slope in the vent pipe is called a vent angle. 

The vent angles can vary depending on the position of the vent. 

The standard size of the vent angle should be around 1.25 inches per foot, leaning down to the furnace location. 

The vent angle gives a good drainage angle and makes a strong updraft to pull the hot air from the furnace’s bottom. 

The water in the venting system can cause several issues. 

But if you narrow down the vent system, it can help. 

The exhaust flow will slow down if you narrow down the vent system. 

For this, the pressure inside the furnace will reduce. 

When the pressure gets very low, the safety pressure of the furnace will shut down the system. 

How do you calculate the vent pipe for the furnace?

Calculating the furnace vent pipe depends on the unit and the exit point of the vent outside the building.

The vents are attached to a flange on the top or back of the furnace. 

The unit runs through the roof or outside wall. 

Consult your local building department to find the proper vent exit point. 

From that point, you have to start calculating the piping and fittings. 

Venting through the roof 

  • Measure the flange’s diameter at the top of the furnace to get the diameter of the vent pipes and collars, roof flashing, and other offset fittings. Measure the distance from the furnace top to the ceiling above the furnace’s position. Note the measurements and include the duct collar for the hole in the ceiling. 
  • Get to the attic using a stepladder or stairs. Walk on the upper edges of the ceiling joists and reach the area above the furnace’s position. 
  • Now measure the vertical distance from the upper side of the ceiling to the downside of the roof sheathing. Add 36 inches for clearance above the roof. Note the quantity of vent pipe required in the attic. Add a roof flashing and pipe strap measurement to secure the pipe at the side of the rafter. 
  • Determine the 45° offset fitting numbers needed to install the vent pipes. Avoid touching the framing support and AC ducts. Install a long vent section at a 45° angle to get the necessary clearance. Add another 45° offset at the upper end of the pipe section to transition vertically and visit via the roof. Since vent pipes cannot be within a 6-inch of wood framing and AC ducts, you must install the long vent. 

Venting through the outside wall

  • Measure the diameter of the circular flange where the vent is attached to the back of the furnace. It will tell you the size of the vent pipe, fittings, and flashings required to install in the vent system. 
  • Note the clearance distance between the furnace and the back wall at the heater closet, garage, or basement wall based on the manufacturer’s suggestions. 
  • Now measure the width across the face of the door jamb or window frame near the wall where you will install the vent. Add the clearance with the thickness of the wall to find the amount of vent pipe needed. Also include the flashing to install outside the wall and the vent collar to insulate the vent pipe passing through the wall. 

Different types of vents

There are different types of vents for different furnaces, like gas, high-efficiency, etc. 

Types of vents for furnaces

If you want to vent a gas furnace, there are three options – 

  • Natural venting
  • Sidewall venting
  • Concentric venting

Natural venting is a B-type being and was a common method in the old days. 

You must attach a natural vent pipe to the furnace and run it vertically through the roof.

In that way, the hot combustion fumes can rise easily and exit through your roof. 

Most natural vents are built in the existing house chimneys. 

However, you can still install one through-the-roof vent without a chimney or an outside chimney. 

Sidewall venting uses 1 or 2 pipes to run through the exterior walls, bring fresh air for combustion in the furnace, and expel dangerous gasses out of the furnace. 

Sidewall venting systems that use one pipe are called indirect venting systems. 

In contrast, those using two pipes are called direct venting systems. 

Concentric venting systems give a compact room-sealed flue, where the flue gasses and air supply are managed inside the single concentric ducting system.

The system is a duct-within-a-duct style where the flue gasses escape with the smaller inner duct, and fresh air can enter for combustion from the wide outer annulus. 

The system is either installed horizontally and passed through the outer walls or vertically and vented through the roof. 

Vents for a high-efficiency furnace 

These vents use the sidewall venting system where two pipes are used, like the intake and exhaust pipes. 

One pipe is used as a direct vent, and another as an indirect vent. 

If you need clarification, consult ht eNFPA and UMC for clear guidance. 

Different category appliances are vented in different ways:

  • The category one appliances, like the old-fashioned gravity vent and induced draft furnaces, are vented vertically through the roof or chimney. 
  • The category two and three appliances, like the boilers, vented water heaters, and tankless water heaters, are vented as per the manufacturer’s guidelines horizontally through the sidewalls. 
  • The category four appliances include high-efficiency gas furnaces and water heaters vented horizontally through the sidewall.

Types of vent pipes for furnaces

There are multiple vent pipe options for the furnaces. 

Maximum furnaces use vent pipe types from the following options:

  • Copper pipes
  • Iron pipes
  • Concrete pipes
  • Galvanized steel pipes
  • Aluminum pipes
  • Carbon fiber pipes
  • Plastic pipes
  • Stainless steel pipes

Out of so many options, copper, iron, and galvanized steel pipes are the most common pipe materials used for venting.

The exhaust fumes from the traditional vents are hot enough and exceed 460°F. 

Modern furnaces use plastic pipes because these furnaces produce cool fumes, thus reducing the chances of melting. 

So, plastic pipes are great for category IV appliances as they are watertight and airtight. 

Besides, plastic pipes are cheaper than others.

Can I use PVC pipes for furnace vents?

The vent pipes of the furnace connect the unit to the outside. 

The pipes should prevent the air from accumulating in the furnace. 

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipe is not rated for heat transfer and can melt easily and cause leaks. 

However, some contractors use PVC pipes for the furnace venting. 

But, it is better to use something other than PVC pipes. 

The biggest problem with these pipes is the phthalates. 

These are a class of chemical compounds used to make plastic flexible. 

Inside the furnace, these chemical compounds can drain into the air due to high temperatures and become cancer-causing agents. 

So, PVC is not considered safe for venting pipes in the furnace. 

Furnace vent replacement 

At some point, you might have to replace the furnace. 

Though it takes time, it is necessary to know the different things for the replacement. 

Research said that gas furnaces are the most efficient for home heating during cold weather. 

But, they do not properly release combustion exhaust fumes containing carbon monoxide. 

Here are some good furnace vent options for replacement based on different vent types:

Concentric venting

  • Diversitech CVENT-2 Concentric Vent
  • Rheem SP20245 Concentric Vent

Sidewall venting

  • Tjernlund SS1 Oil Side Wall Vent
  • Vent HoodVH1-6 Vent

Final thoughts

The vent pipe helps expel the furnace’s toxic gas and carbon monoxide. 

Allowing these gasses to be expelled will keep the furnace good. 

The standard size of the vent pipe should be around 15 feet at a vertical distance. 

But, the pipe length can reach 150 feet, 100 feet vertically, and 50 feet horizontally. 

The length also depends on the furnace type. 

The vent pipe length should be 5 feet if you use a one-pipe system and 10 feet long for a two-pipe system. 

There are multiple vent types natural, concentric, and sidewall. 

The pipe length will differ based on the type. 

Related Articles:

FAQs

Should I insulate the vent pipes?

Vents in the HVAC system allow warm air to escape and allow cold air to enter the system. 

The leaky vents can make the hot air escape too much with some cold air. 

You need a thermostat to adjust to the situation. 

It is best to insulate the vents to avoid the pipe from losing too much air. 

How to know if the furnace is working properly or not?

The furnace’s job is to heat your house. 

The furnace must be vented outside to prevent moisture from entering the house. 

If there is moisture condensation on your windows, the furnace is not working properly. 

Your house will feel cold, damp, and musty. 

It is because the furnace is not properly venting. 

Reference: Furnace Science Direct, Effects of HVAC on combustion-gas transport in residential structures, HVAC System and Part of Indoor Air Quality.

What Size Gas Line Do I Need For Furnace?

Written by Arthur Smith in Furnaces and Boilers,HVAC 

Adding furnaces is very important in houses, especially if you live in a very cold climatic region. But buying one for your house is not the end. You need to get the right gas line size for the unit. This article will help you know how to choose the right size of gas line for a furnace. 

As a general rule, you can use ½ inch-¾ inch gas line for the furnace, depending on the size of the furnace. To determine the right gas line size, you must find your furnace’s BTU and the gas line’s length and pressure. After that, you can receive a proper gas line size estimation. 

A few factors require consideration while selecting the right gas line size. This article has everything you need regarding the gas line size for the furnace. We shall also share a few tips for installing the gas line in the furnace. 

What size of gas line is needed for a furnace?

Installing furnaces in the houses is very important as it keeps your house warm and comfortable in the winter. 

It is more important in colder climates, as the winters are very harsh. 

When buying a gas fuel furnace, you must consider the gas line. 

The gas line is plumbing that runs throughout the house, and individual appliances use branch lines. 

Selecting the right gas line size for a furnace will help in efficiently passing the gas through the furnace. 

Determining the right gas line size for any furnace can be confusing because there are furnaces with multiple sizes. 

The BTU capacity determines the furnace sizes. 

The BTU capacity will affect the gas line size. 

Therefore, you will require different sizes of gas lines for furnaces with different BTUs. 

In most cases, ½ or ¾ inch of lines are used. But, there is no exact measurement. 

There exists an instruction book informing about the different gas line sizes based on the BTU capacity on the furnaces. 

It should tell you what gas line size to use with the furnace. 

You can also specify it yourself by some factors or methods, which I will discuss in the coming sections. 

How to determine the right size of gas line for a furnace?

The gas line has to be in the proper size to handle and support the BTU capacity of the furnace. 

Otherwise, you may end up having serious issues. 

The furnaces come in various sizes with BTU values, like 20,000, 30,000, 60,00, and more. 

So, your system must carry the BTU capacity of the furnace, and you must measure a few things for that. 

You must know the BTU of the furnace, the length of the gas line, and the gas line pressure to determine the gas line size. 

You also need to check whether the place of the furnace is attached or detached from your house. 

Once you consider everything, you will receive the right gas line size. 

Let’s talk about these factors in detail. 

BTU value of the furnace

Before you start deciding the gas line size for your furnace, you must know the BTU capacity of the furnace. 

BTU is a unit that calculates the thermal energy of any unit. 

The BTU determines the size of the furnace, and the gas line size highly depends on this BTU.

The BTU capacity can range anywhere. It can start with 20,000 or less or end with 100,000 or even more. 

So, based on this BTU capacity, you must get the perfect gas line size for the furnace. 

For example, if you have a furnace below 35,000 BTU, you will need a gas line with ½ inch diameter. 

If the BTU is more than 35,000, you will require a gas line with ¾ inch diameter. This gas line size can handle furnaces with a BTU capacity of up to 80,000.

To receive the best from your furnace, you must have a good ceiling and insulation. R-13 would be a good choice. 

The location of the furnace

The furnace can be placed in any room. 

You must consider the location of the furnace, whether it is an attached room or a detached one.

For example, you have a detached garage and want to install a furnace. 

In that case, you will require a longer gas line than normal. 

Things can be easier if the garage is attached. 

Gas line length

Like the other factors, measuring the length of the gas line is also vital. 

It will help you determine the right gas line size for your furnace. 

If the length of the gas line is not too much, a ½ inch gas line size will be fine for your furnace. 

A ½ inch gas line pipe would work well for a 10 or 20 feet gas line length. 

The size will change if the length is too short or too long. 

The length can increase if you wish to install the furnace in any detached area, like a garage or workshop. 

In that case, the length of your gas line has to be 100 feet long, and you need a gas pipe measuring ¾ inch in diameter to handle such long lengths. 

Even if the BTU is high and the distance is long, a ¾ inch gas line would be enough.

Gas line pressure

The length can also affect the water pressure. 

For example, if you use a ⅜ inch pipe for 10 feet, it will exert a water pressure of 95. 

The same size of gas line used at 80 feet will decrease the pressure to 31. 

You need 11 inches of water column for the gas to flow properly. 

The same gas line size can support up to 0.6 PSI of pressure every 100 feet. 

Most gas lines have a pressure ranging between 5 and 10 PSI.

Number of appliances

Some appliances in the houses use natural gas. 

You need to know which of the devices in your house uses natural gas to operate. 

You will need a more extensive gas line for your furnace if you have many such devices. 

Each appliance uses a certain amount of gas to operate. 

So, this can affect the gas line size to add this usage. 

Natural gas used daily 

You need to find out the amount of natural gas to use daily in cubic feet. 

It will let you know the amount of natural gas your house needs, which further helps get a significant gas line for the furnace. 

If you use less gas, you may use a smaller gas line. 

Otherwise, you require an extensive one.

For example, you need a ½ inch gas line for a furnace having 30,000 BTU of energy capacity. 

But, you will require a gas line sized ⅜ inch if your house consumes 1,000 to 1,200 cubic feet of natural gas daily. 

Using the gas line with the highest capacity for your furnace is always better.

How far can the gas lines run?

    The distance a gas line can run completely depends on the size of the gas line. 

    For example, if you use a ½ inch gas line, you can run it up to 40 feet. 

    You must upgrade the size if you want to use a gas line for further distance. 

    You can use ¾ inch gas lines for more than 40 feet. 

    The distance can differ based on the gas line size. 

    I shared about these two gas line sizes because they are the most commonly used gas lines applicable to all furnace sizes. 

    How to install a gas line for a furnace?

    Once you have determined the right gas line size for the furnace, it is time to know the steps for installation. 

    Here I will share a few tips for installing a gas line for the furnace. 

    However, you can always hire a professional if you feel uncomfortable doing it yourself. 

    • Make sure that the furnace’s power is off before you start any work related to it. 
    • If you are running a new gas line, use a ¾ inch of black steel pipe; for example, schedule 40 or 80. For natural gas, use schedule 40; for propane, use schedule 80.
    • Use the fittings suitable for the gas lines. Do not use improvised fittings, or there could be chances of leakages. 
    • Ensure the tightness of every connection. Use 2 wrenches to tighten the fittings properly so that one twist can hold the fitting and the other can tighten the connection. 
    • Once you have installed the line, turn on the gas and test for leakage. Use soapy water and brushes to check the connection for bubbles. Bubbles mean there has been a leak; otherwise, everything is perfect. Fix the leakages, if any. 

    These steps will ensure that the gas line has been properly and safely installed. 

    Besides the ¾ inch black steel pipe, you also need fittings and proper connectors for the gas lines. 

    You must ensure that the connections are tight enough. 

    Always test for leakages and fix them immediately before starting the furnace and gas lines. 

    Different gas line sizes for furnace sizes.

    There are no sizes of furnaces. 

    It is the BTU value that differentiates the furnace and its size. 

    Since the furnaces have different BTU values, the gas line will differ accordingly. 

    Here is a small table guide about a few furnace and gas line sizes. 

    FurnaceGas line sizes
    30,000 BTU½ inch, and ⅜ inch if the house uses 1,000 to 1,200 cubic feet of natural gas per day
    35,000 BTU½ inch
    38,000 BTU¾ inch
    60,000 BTU½ inch
    80,000 BTU¾ inch and 1 inch if the gas line is longer
    100,000 BTU½ inch
    Furnace size and Gas line size guide

    How much does it cost to install or repair a gas line?

    The gas line installation cost can be around $12 to $25 per linear foot, including labor, material, piping, and permission.

    The separate labor cost to install a gas line can cost around $3 to $11 per foot, based on the pipe’s diameter and job difficulty. 

    Licensed plumbers charge around $45 to $150 per hour and sometimes $100 per hour for new gas lines.

    The repair will cost $6 to $7 per foot. 

    It may cost $355 to $743 per gas line from an existing connection and $500 to $2,000 from the meter. 

    Converting to natural gas or getting a new line from the street to the house can cost around $2,000 or more. 

    Final thoughts

    The size of the gas line for a furnace does not exist. 

    Different furnaces have different BTU values, and the gas line differs depending on the BTU value. 

    Consider certain factors when deciding the gas line size for a furnace. 

    The factors include the BTU value of the furnace, the gas line length, gas line pressure, house size, appliances, and daily gas use. 

    However, despite the different BTU values, ½-inch and ¾-inch gas lines are mostly used for furnaces. 

    It can change based on the length, pressure, and other things. 

    You can follow the table I shared in the article for a proper gas line. 

    However, those are not the exact size but approximate measurements. 

    It may change based on several factors.

    You can consult an expert or follow any instruction book to get the right gas line size for the furnace. 

    Related Articles:

    FAQs

    Can I use a flexible gas line for the house?

    You may hear many things about this, but it is considered safe and functional. You can use it for short runs, for instance, from the stove to the wall. 

    When the cooktop feeds the gas, the clothes, the dryer, or the gas range, the brass appliance connector tubing will be used in the house. 

    Where can I use a flexible gas line?

    CSST is a flexible stainless steel tube that gives natural gas and propane to houses, businesses, and industries. 

    Do not get confused with the appliance connectors. 

    They are flexible pipes connecting the wall or floor to the phone, like an oven and dryer. 

    Can I use PVC for gas lines?

    PVC pipes can adapt to any conditions; thus, you can use them for natural gas and water lines. 

    Due to the high pressure of natural gas, it is better not to use PVC pipes. Instead, you can use a black steel pipe. 

    Reference: Furnace Science Direct, Effects of HVAC on combustion-gas transport in residential structures, HVAC System and Part of Indoor Air Quality.

    Can I Heat My Garage With My Home Furnace?

    Written by Arthur Smith in Furnaces and Boilers,HVAC 

    A robust heater or furnace is necessary if your living area has harsh winters. Otherwise, your house will become an icebox. But if you have a garage, you might wonder whether you can heat your garage with the same home furnace. That’s what we shall share today. 

    Running a heating duct from the furnace in your home to the garage can heat the garage. However, it is not recommended because the garage does not need the same heat as the house. Besides, a garage is an enclosed area that requires specialized units running on natural gas or propane. 

    You can use several methods and individual furnaces to heat the garage. This article will explain the possibility of using the home furnace for the garage and other options to heat the garage. So, let’s begin without further delay. 

    Can I use the house furnace in my garage?

    Adding a furnace is necessary if you live in a very cold region. 

    In many areas, garages do not require the same heat capacity as the living space needs. 

    But some people use garages as their workshop, storage space, or music studio. 

    Thus, having the same amount of heat as in the living space is very important. 

    Adding a heating system in the garage can maintain comfort and allow you to spend as much time as you need. 

    You can install a new garage heater, or you take the furnace from home. 

    Running the furnace from your home to the garage is one of the easiest methods for heating the space, but there are better options. 

    It comes with a few pros and cons. 

    Adding the furnace from the house to the garage is beneficial because:

    • The fix is very easy and does not require any separate installation process. 
    • You do not have to add any additional units for installation.
    • You can do it on your own. 
    • The process is the cheapest option. 

    Despite these good points, there is a big drawback. 

    The house furnace might be unable to handle the extra demands to heat the garage evenly. 

    Why should you not add a furnace from the home to the garage?

    Though some people recommend running a heating duct from the furnace present inside the house, it is not a very good idea to follow every time. 

    The garage is an enclosed space. So, to add any heating system in this area, you need specialized units designed for such enclosed spaces. 

    Some people use gas heaters for their garages. 

    These heaters need to run on either natural gas or propane.

    Garage heaters have their own flue, and ventilation needs differ from house furnaces. 

    Besides these, the garage does not contain enough safety features as the home has for the furnaces. 

    So, adding a separate furnace or any other heating system for your garage is better. 

    Also read: Can a Furnace Be In A Closed Room?

    Factors determining the heating system of the garage

    Since it is suggested not to add the home furnace to the garage, you must select a heater specifically for the garage to keep it warm. 

    You must consider several factors before selecting the right heater for the garage.

    For example, location is very important.

    Colder regions require a powerful heater that can release a high volume of heat and spread quickly and evenly throughout the garage. 

    Other factors are discussed below:

    Insulation quality.

    Not all garages have good quality insulation, and some do not have any insulation, especially old houses. 

    This ignorance is because a garage is not a living place. 

    You visit the area less often, whenever required.

    Depending on the lack or quality of insulation, you have to get an efficient heater for your garage that can keep the space warm enough.

    The insulation value is measured in R-value per inch of thickness. 

    The value will help you know the quality of insulation and whether it can keep the heat from entering the garage. 

    Higher R-value means the insulation is much better and, thus, will keep the cold from entering your garage. 

    Intended usage

    How you intend to use the garage will affect the type of heating system to install. 

    Garages can be used for several purposes, like:

    • Working on projects for several hours, especially throughout the winter.
    • Keeping only vehicles from being exposed to freezing temperatures.
    • Using it as a music studio.
    • Using it as a small storage space.

    It completely depends on the way you use the garage. 

    For example, you want to use it for hours, like for a music studio or working on projects. 

    In that case, you need a good heater that can warm the garage evenly for longer periods. 

    If you want to use it for storage or vehicle security, you do not need a powerful unit. 

    A unit keeping the garage slightly warm will be fine. 

    Fuel source

    The efficiency of the heating system in the garage depends on the source of fuel you wish to use in the unit. 

    When you decide on garage heaters, you get two options – electric and gas heaters. 

    Electric heaters are very efficient, and most need the standard 110V outlet. 

    Based on the heater type, it can produce around 40,000 BTU of energy per hour. 

    So, the heater will warm up your garage evenly. 

    Electric heaters will be the best for your garage if your house is powered by solar. 

    Gas heaters require natural gas and propane to run. 

    If you do not want to use any electricity in your garages, gas heaters are the best. 

    These have separate flue and ventilation requirements.

    Garage size

    The size of your garage is very crucial. 

    Large garages will require powerful heating systems to spread hot air to every garage corner. 

    Find out the square foot of your garage and get the right heater that releases enough BTU energy per hour to warm up the whole space.

    Climatic conditions

    Your location is another important factor. 

    The climatic conditions can affect the type of heater for your garage, especially during the winter.

    If the region is warm enough, you might need a heater to keep the garage slightly warmer in winter. 

    But if the winters are very cold, you need a powerful heater with a higher BTU so your garage remains warm throughout the space. 

    What are the best heaters for a garage?

    Not running the home furnace to the garage is a great idea. 

    But you will require a separate heater to add in the garage. 

    There are multiple heating systems for the garage. Here are some of them:

    Mounted garage heaters

    [amalinkspro type=”image-link” asin=”B07QM2H5TR” new-window=”true” apilink=”https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM2H5TR?tag=uhc02-20; img-size=”500,500″ addtocart=”false” nofollow=”true” alt=”Comfort Zone CZ230ER 7,500-Watt, 240v Hard-Wired Digital Fan-Forced Ceiling Mount Heater with Full-Function Remote, Overheat Protection, Digital Thermostat, and 12-Hour Timer, Silver” alignment=”aligncenter”]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41Ze6El+E7L._SL500_.jpg[/amalinkspro]

    You can install these permanent heaters in the garage’s ceilings or walls. 

    The mounted heaters are considered the large and powerful heating options. 

    You can benefit highly from these heaters if the winter is cold and your garage is big enough.

    Portable garage heaters

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    Portable heaters are free-standing heaters that are smaller in size. 

    Thus, you can mount them in smaller spaces.

    Stay relaxed about the heater size. 

    Though it is smaller in size, it can evenly spread the heat all over the garage at the same time. 

    The heaters are powerful despite being small. 

    These are the best ones for small garages.

    Ceramic garage heaters

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    Ceramic heaters are a great option as they do not need any flammable liquid to function. 

    The heaters do not release any harmful fumes or gasses. 

    Ceramic heaters can heat a ceramic core at high temperatures. 

    The hot air from the heater will evenly get distributed in the surrounding areas. 

    These heaters will produce about 30,000 BTU of energy per hour. 

    So, they are a great choice for colder regions.

    Quartz garage heaters

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    Quartz heaters are also considered the most efficient ones for garages. 

    The heating element in this heater is made up of quartz that does not release any dangerous fumes or gasses. 

    These heating systems can release around 40,000 BTU of energy per hour, which is quite remarkable for the garage. 

    Quartz heaters are durable and safe. 

    They have high ratings in terms of efficiency compared to the other heaters. 

    So, you can save time and money behind other heaters. 

    Another plus point about quartz heaters is that they need very little maintenance, and you do not need to move any parts. 

    Fan forced heaters

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    Fan-forced heaters are famous and affordable heaters ideal for garages. 

    Once the internal heating element gets properly heated, the fan will blow out the hot air and spread it throughout the garage. 

    These heaters also do not emit harmful fumes and gasses like quartz and ceramic heaters. 

    They also do not need any extra ventilation and are safe to use. 

    The fan-forced heaters are easy to use and require the standard 110V outlet for operation. 

    These heaters are smaller than the other unit types and, therefore, produce around 20,000 BTUs of energy per hour. 

    If your garage is smaller in size, then this heater would be a great one. 

    Convection heaters 

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    Convection heaters generate heat by convection. 

    The air currents of the heaters circulate inside the unit and heating element. 

    Then the air is pushed out by the fan to get spread throughout the space. 

    Some convection heaters need a separate fan to take in the cool air as it allows the unit to heat this air faster. 

    The convection heaters can warm the air efficiently. So, they would be a great choice for your garages. 

    The great thing about these heaters is that they can run on electricity, natural gas, or propane. 

    It is completely up to you to use electricity or gas. 

    Infrared heaters

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    The infrared heaters generate the heat with the help of a low-intensity infrared tube that spreads the heat throughout the garage. 

    Infrared heaters can warm up the surrounding materials much before the people in the room. 

    It means the heater does not heat the surrounding air of the garage but the objects. That is how it keeps the garage warm. 

    These heaters are great for the garages as most are not insulated, and the units do not lose air.

    You can power this with electricity, natural gas, or propane. 

    One drawback is the heat released from the heater is short-lived. 

    So, it is fine if you do not spend too much time in the garage. 

    But if you spend a lot of time in the garage, try other heaters.

    In-surface radiant heaters

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    This heater generates heat with infrared radiation. 

    It heats the surface of the garage and not the surrounding areas or the air. 

    You should install it on the garage floors, walls, or ceilings.

    It is considered the most efficient way of heating the garage. 

    The system is quite expensive, and the installation process can be lengthy, especially during the floor installation.

    Will I always need electricity to run the garage heaters?

    You do not always have to rely on electricity to run heaters. 

    There are several heaters; some run by electricity, and some require natural gas or propane. 

    If you do not want to waste electricity, you can choose heaters that operate with natural gas or propane. 

    You can run the heater with the natural gas line from home to the heater. 

    It will burn clean, is affordable, and is highly available. 

    Propane will be the best for the houses and garages having a gas grid. 

    Propane is also easily available and affordable. 

    Most houses, gas stations, and grocery stores have propane tanks and tank refills. 

    If you wish to have gas heaters for your garage, you may use a mounted or fixed heater or a portable heater. 

    Final thoughts

    A garage can help you in many ways, like giving your car extra security and room for storage or other things. 

    Adding a heater to the garage is very important, especially if you visit the space more often. 

    Though some suggest using your house’s furnace in the garage, it is a bad idea. 

    Adding the home furnace to the garage can be fixed easily as it does not contain any installation process. 

    But garages might need less heat than the houses require, or the heater may fail to fulfill the different garage demands. 

    Besides, the garage is an enclosed space. 

    So, it is better to have specialized units for such areas. 

    Also, garages do not have enough security features as the houses have. 

    So, it is better to add separate heaters for the garages. 

    Some good garage heaters are mounted heaters, portable heaters, ceramic and quartz heaters, infrared heaters, in-surface heaters, etc. 

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    Reference: Furnace Science Direct, Effects of HVAC on combustion-gas transport in residential structures, HVAC System and Part of Indoor Air Quality.