Whirlpool Refrigerator Light Flashing: 6 Causes+Fix

Written by Jeniffer Smith in Refrigerator,Appliances

If the light in your Whirlpool refrigerator keeps flashing, it indicates something is wrong. If you are unsure how to deal with this issue, you are at the right place.

Generally, Your whirlpool refrigerator light might flash due to the faulty light bulb. Replace the light bulb to fix the issue. However, It may also happen due to a broken switch or a faulty circuit board. In such a case, we need to replace the switch or other component which is at fault.

In this article, I will help you understand the root cause and the fix of the light flashing issue in your whirlpool refrigerator. So, keep reading.

Light flashing inside my Whirlpool refrigerator

Refrigerators are frequently used devices without which kitchen activities will take a hit.

Nearly every refrigerator has a light inside it.

It turns on every time you open the refrigerator.

There is a purpose behind the light in the refrigerator.

There are lights in the refrigerator to make it easy for you to find and arrange things in place.

If you open the refrigerator at night when there is no light in the kitchen room, the light in the refrigerator helps you locate things you want to pick.

What if there is no light in the refrigerator?

It would become extremely hard to pick out things when there is no light at night.

If you notice, not all freezers have light inside them, and it is because people don’t use the freezer as frequently as they use refrigerators.

Especially at night, the chances of people opening a freezer are far less.

Apart from this, there is no specific purpose behind a refrigerator having a light.

Even if the light breaks, a refrigerator will function as well as it normally does.

In general, LED lights are used inside the refrigerator as they can handle the low temperature inside it.

Why is my Whirlpool light flashing? (+Fix)

If the light inside your Whirlpool refrigerator flashes frequently, it disturbs the flow of kitchen activities and indicates a fault you must not neglect.

Recently my refrigerator also caused the same issue, and after a lot of trial and error, I successfully fixed it.

I don’t want you to go through the same trial and error process, so I have shared the common causes and the step-by-step process to fix the issue in this article.

Here are the 6 common causes and the process to fix the common issues.

1. A faulty bulb

A bulb is attached to the socket inside the refrigerator.

It gets a steady flow of current from the refrigerator power supply to blow the light.

If a bulb is screwed tight with the socket, it will emit a steady beam of light.

When the bulb is attached firmly to the socket, it will get enough power to blow the light.

But a loosely attached bulb will keep flashing the light with varied intensity.

The intensity of the flash differs according to the amount of current received by the bulk.

To fix this issue, you must tighten the bulb.

Here is how you can tighten the bulb inside the refrigerator:

Open the refrigerator door and access the bulb.
Remove the cover from the bulb by detaching the latches.
Access the bulb, and use a screwdriver to rotate it clockwise. By doing so, your bulb will be tightened.
Put the cover of the bulb back.
If the bulb is still flashing, you must replace the bulb.

Follow these steps to replace the bulb from your whirlpool refrigerator:

Purchase a new LED bulb based on the model of your whirlpool refrigerator.
Start by unplugging your whirlpool refrigerator from the electric outlet.
Access the bulb inside the refrigerator.
You can see it closed with the plastic cover.
Detach the latches and remove the screws using the screwdriver to disconnect the cover.
Now, you can locate the bulb. Rotate it anticlockwise to remove the bulb from the socket.
Fix the new bulb to the socket. Make sure it is fixed well with the socket.
Reattach the cover and secure it with the screws.
Close the refrigerator door.
Plug in the refrigerator to the electric outlet.
Run the refrigerator and see if the flashing of the light has stopped.

2. Issues with the dimmer switch

The LED lights in the refrigerator come with dimmer switches that you can find in the refrigerator.

Dimmer switches are designed in a way to work at a higher voltage.

If you use the dimmer with low-voltage LED lights, it will wear out over time.

To avoid this issue, you must install an LED light equal to the dimmer switch’s voltage.

3. A broken switch

A switch in the refrigerator on and off the interior light when you open and close it.

A switch operates the intensity of the light inside the refrigerator.

When you open the refrigerator, a switch blows up the blub present inside it.

If the light flashes, it may be due to the broken switch.

A defective switch will not switch off the light inside the refrigerator when you close the door.

It also happens due to dust accumulation.

If the dust accumulates around the switch, it will prevent the switch from performing the normal function it should.

A switch may become loose or broken, blocking the supply of current needed to blow the switch.

In such a case, consider cleaning the dirt around the switch.

If the light still keeps flashing, you must replace the switch.

Follow these steps to replace the switch in your whirlpool refrigerator:

Purchase a new switch depending on the model of your refrigerator.
Unplug the refrigerator from the electric supply.
Wear gloves on your hands for safety reasons.
Open the door of your whirlpool refrigerator.
Access the control box inside the refrigerator.
Using a screwdriver, remove the screws securing the control box to the refrigerator.
Pull off the control box and disconnect the wire harness from the control box.
Disconnect the control box from the refrigerator and place it in a comfortable place to work.
Locate the light switch at the right corner of the control box.
Pull the light switch out and disconnect the wires attached to the switch.
Attach the new switch with the wire and position the switch in the control box.
Connect the wire harness to the control box.
Position the control box in its original place and secure it with the screws.

Plug in your whirlpool refrigerator.

Check if the light inside the refrigerator stopped flashing.

Or else, go ahead with the following fixes.

4. Wire connection issues

Electrical wires in and around the housing supply the required current to the refrigerator.

Not only refrigerators but all electrical devices also need a steady flow of electricity to function well.

If the wire connections are at fault, they won’t supply the required current to the refrigerator.

A flashing light inside the refrigerator may also indicate an improper power supply.

A loose wire connection blocks enough power supply to the bulb, resulting in the flashing light.

Consider inspecting the main supply for the proper electricity flow.

If the power supply from the main supply is weak, it won’t deliver enough current to blow the light steadily.

In such a case, you should hire a professional to figure out the loose wire connection and fix the issue efficiently.

It is recommended to seek help from a professional instead of doing it yourself because it is dangerous to operate electrical units without a professional’s help.

You must fix the wiring issue as soon as possible because running heavy-duty devices like refrigerators with loose wires is dangerous.

It will damage the refrigerator, and it will cause hazards to your family at times of electric shock.

5. A faulty power cord

A power cord is attached to the electrical outlet to supply the electric current to the refrigerator.

If the power cord is not properly attached to the electric outlet, it won’t pass the required current to the refrigerator.

Check if the wires attached to the power cord are damaged.

If cracked or damaged, a current cannot pass through them to blow the light inside the refrigerator.

Check if the power cord is attached firmly to the electric outlet to fix this issue.

Check if the wires of the electric cord are broken.

Consider replacing them with the new wire to let the current flow efficiently without any barrier.

Follow these steps to replace the power cord and the attached wire:

Purchase the new power cord depending on the model of your refrigerator.
Unplug the refrigerator from the electric outlet.
Turn off the water supply valve of the refrigerator.
Disconnect the water supply from the inlet valve.
Using a screwdriver, remove the screws securing the rear access panel to the refrigerator.
To access the power cord grounding wire and the mounting screws, you must pull off the compressor. Pull out the three retaining pins and move the compressor upwards.
Access the power cord wire. Remove the screws securing the retainer clip.
Disconnect the wire harness securing the old power cord.
Remove the power cord completely from the refrigerator.
Transfer the retaining lip from the old power cord to the new one.
Connect the new power cord with the wire harness. Secure the grounding wire to the base of the refrigerator.
Secure the retaining clip to the refrigerator.
Reposition the compressor to its original place. Secure it with the retaining pins.
Reattach the rear access panel and secure it with the screws.
Connect the water pipe to the inlet valve and turn on the water supply valve.
Plug in the refrigerator.

6. A defective circuit board

A refrigerator’s circuit board controls the refrigerator’s major functions, like cooling and lighting the inner side of the refrigerator.

When the circuit board is at fault, the major functions of the refrigerator will be disturbed.

If the light flashes inside your whirlpool refrigerator, you must check the working status of the circuit board.

Consider replacing the circuit board if it is defective.

Follow the steps below to replace the circuit board:

Purchase a new control panel based on the model of your refrigerator.

Unplug the refrigerator from the electric outlet.
Access the control board cover at the back of the refrigerator.
Remove the cover of the control board using the screwdriver.
Locate the control board and take a picture of it on your smartphone for future reference.
Disconnect all the wires attached to the control panel.
Remove the control panel from the control panel housing.
Replace the old control panel with the new one.
Reattach all the wires by referring to the photo you took.
Secure the control panel in place.
Reattach the cover by securing it with the screws you removed.
Plug in the refrigerator.

How do I reset my Whirlpool refrigerator?

You cannot find the separate reset buttons for resetting your refrigerator.

Still, you can reset your whirlpool refrigerator by following the below steps:

Unplug the refrigerator from the electric outlet.
Let the refrigerator unplug for the next 10 minutes.
Next, plug in your whirlpool refrigerator to the electric outlet.
Check if the refrigerator is reset. Or else go ahead with the next step.
Access the lock and the filter button. Press them simultaneously for 3 seconds.
You can see the symbol “E” on the ice chest board if the reset is successful. Or else continue with the next step.
Locate the door and temperature buttons. Press them simultaneously for 3 seconds.

Now your refrigerator has reset.

How do you change the LED light on a whirlpool bottom freezer?

While not all freezers have LED lights, some new model whirlpool freezer does have LED lights inside them.

Follow the steps mentioned below to change the LED light from the freezer:

Unplug the refrigerator from the electric outlet.
Locate the LED light compartment.
Using the screwdriver, remove the LED cover.
Unscrew the LED light and disconnect the wire harness.
Replace the old LED light with the new one. Connect the wire harness.
Secure the new LED light with the freezer.
Secure the cover with the screws.
Plug in the refrigerator.

Final thoughts

Light flashing in your whirlpool refrigerator happens due to the causes I mentioned in the article. You must go through the causes and figure out which is causing the issue in your whirlpool refrigerator.

A light flashing issue may also occur due to loose and faulty wire connections in your home. In such a case, you must hire a professional to fix the wire connection to prevent electrical hazards.

After finding the issue, you can follow the steps mentioned in the article to fix it.

Reference: Whirlpool Official Manual Top Mount, Whirlpool Official Manual Side-by-Side.

3 Ways To Reset Whirlpool Microwave

Written by Jeniffer Smith in Microwave,Appliances

Resetting is a simple yet effective step you can take to solve minor issues in your whirlpool microwave. If you are facing trouble with your microwave and are unsure how to reset it, you are at the right place.

You can reset your whirlpool microwave by pressing the cancel or clear button for 3 seconds. You can also do a hard reset by unplugging your microwave and reconnecting it after 20 minutes. Make sure to disable the child lock before resetting your microwave.

In this article, I will help you understand the 3 different ways to reset your whirlpool microwave. You will also know the common issues with the microwave to avoid them in the future. So, keep reading.

Why does your whirlpool microwave need a reset?

Like any other appliances, microwaves are also sensitive devices.

It is common to face certain faults and repairs in the long run.

At times it requires a complex repair process to fix the issue.

But that’s not the case all the time.

To your surprise, a simple reset can also fix many issues.

If you are facing troubles with your whirlpool microwave, it is good to start the repair by resetting your device.

Even after resetting, if the issues in the microwave are not solved, you can move to the next repair process.

Now, let’s understand under what conditions you need to perform a reset in your whirlpool microwave.

You must perform a reset in your whirlpool microwave if you have the following issues:

1. Your whirlpool microwave is not heating properly.

A microwave generally requires 120 Voltage and 20A current to function.

There are several reasons why your whirlpool microwave is not heating.

It may be due to a faulty power cord, incapable of supplying the required current and voltage to the microwave.

Whirlpool microwaves come with diodes, high-voltage capacitors, and transformers.

All these components are used to power up a magnetron.

A voltage or current fluctuation will prevent the microwave emission required to heat the food in the microwave.

To fix these issues, you must try resetting your whirlpool microwave.

2. Your microwave doesn’t start

The microwave may stop working due to the defective main fuse.

If the voltage is higher than the standard voltage, the main fuse will disrupt the flow of the electric supply.

In this state, the main fuse is considered blown out.

If a door switch is faulty, it won’t let the microwave start.

Also, if you accidentally shut the door fast, it may get damaged.

As a result, the door may not close properly.

Fix the door switch and the door.

Next, reset your microwave to refresh it for effective function.

3. The timer in your microwave doesn’t display the details properly

A timer not working properly on your whirlpool microwave may be due to issues with the control board and the wire connections.

To fix this issue, you must reset your microwave before jumping into the complex repairs.

4. The turntable glass in the middle of the microwave is not rotating and making a weird noise

A glass turntable is essential to cook the food evenly.

If it doesn’t rotate, the food inside the microwave will not cook properly.

A glass turntable in the microwave may get struck due to defects in the mechanism of the microwave.

It also happens due to the broken glass plate in the turntable mechanism.

You can start the repair process by resetting your whirlpool microwave to fix this issue.

5. The microwave buttons are not functioning

The control panel controls buttons on the microwave.

If the buttons are not working, they may be due to the loose wire connections or the defective control board.

You can start fixing the issue by performing the soft and hard reset.

Is there a reset button on the whirlpool microwave?

There is no separate reset button in the whirlpool microwave.

Instead, you can use the “clear” option or the ”cancel” option to reset your microwave.

A clear option is generally used to undo all the settings you initially performed.

But you can also use it to perform the soft reset.

You can also hard reset it by disconnecting it from the power supply.

How can I reset my whirlpool microwave?

You can reset your whirlpool microwave if you face any trouble with it or if it is not working.

You can perform a reset in the following 3 ways:

A soft reset
A hard reset
Child lock reset

Let’s begin by understanding how you can perform a soft reset.

1. A soft reset

A soft reset can bring your microwave to working condition.

You can perform a soft reset if you have selected the incorrect time during a cooking process or if your microwave is suddenly stuck.

A soft let your microwave turn off and erase the program you initially performed.

Follow the steps given below to soft reset your whirlpool microwave:

Locate the clear or cancel button on your microwave.
Press the button. Hold it for 3 seconds to turn off your whirlpool microwave.
Your microwave has reset.

Finally, test if the issue is solved.

Pour water into a cup.
Place it inside the microwave.
Switch on the microwave and set 30 minutes as the cooking time.
Turn off the microwave. Check if the water is hot.

If the water is hot, you have successfully reset your whirlpool microwave.

If the issue still hasn’t been solved, try a hard reset.

2. A hard reset

A hard reset is performed to fix the issue that is not solved with the soft reset.

Even after the soft reset, if your whirlpool microwave doesn’t respond or the buttons are not still working, you can perform a hard reset.

Follow the steps given below to hard reset your whirlpool microwave:

Locate the power cord of your whirlpool microwave. Locate the circuit if your microwave is connected to the electric circuit.
Disconnect the power cord from the electric outlet. And switch off the circuit button to turn off the electric supply to the microwave.
Let the microwave stay disconnected from the electric outlet for the next 20 minutes.
After 20 minutes, connect your whirlpool microwave to the electric outlet by plugging in the microwave.
As the microwave could have completely reset, you must fix the correct time.

After a hard reset, check if the issue is solved.

3. Resetting a microwave with a child lock switched on

The child lock or the control lock is a useful feature to prevent your child from accidental damage.

If you have toddlers in your house, they might reach out to the microwave and end up pressing the buttons on it aimlessly.

It will interrupt the device’s function while causing potential harm to your child.

If the child lock is activated, all the buttons in the microwave won’t respond except the power button.

Follow these steps to reset your microwave with the child lock feature switched on:

Confirm if the child lock feature is activated. You can check it by the small key lock symbol on the screen.
Locate the clear or power-off button in your whirlpool microwave.
Press the power off or the clear button for 3 seconds.

Check if the child lock feature is disabled.

When should I hard reset my whirlpool microwave?

You must hard reset your whirlpool microwave when it doesn’t turn on due to software glitches.

You can also hard reset if the keypad is not working even after the soft reset.

A hard reset is necessary if your microwave automatically trips the circuit.

Will resetting damage my whirlpool microwave?

When you reset your microwave more frequently without a necessity, it will damage the device.

But resetting the microwave when it has issues won’t damage it.

Instead, it solves minor issues like software glitches and keypad issues.

Ensure you are not resetting your microwave unnecessarily.

Consider resetting your whirlpool microwave when it is absolutely necessary.

How do you reset a microwave that won’t start?

You can do a soft or hard reset if your microwave doesn’t start.

Check if the child lock is switched on.

To do a soft reset, press the cancel or the power button for 3 seconds.

Doing so can solve the software glitches causing your microwave to get stuck.

If your microwave doesn’t start after a soft reset, you must hard reset it.

For hard resetting the microwave, disconnect it from the electric outlet by unplugging the electric cord. Let it stay disconnected for 20 minutes.

Plug in the microwave to the electric outlet.

Check if your microwave is working properly after the hard reset.

Common issues with the whirlpool microwave

Here are a few common issues that Whirlpool microwave owners report.

While you can solve some of these with a reset, some will require more troubleshooting and fixing.

1. Microwave exhaust fan is not working

Advanced microwaves have an exhaust fan to clean the air above the stove.

If the exhaust fan in your microwave stops working, you will face issues.

To find the exhaust fan, you need to check the air filters.

The exhaust fan will stop working if the air filters are greasy and clogged.

Locate the mesh filter and disconnect it from the microwave.

Clean it to remove all the dirt and greasy deposits.

Check the exhaust fan, remove all the parts and clean them to make the exhaust fan work again.

If you see any damaged part in the assembly, you must replace it.

2. Microwave doesn’t shut off

Another common problem is when you switch on the microwave and start the cooking process, it will keep running even after exceeding the cooking time.

As a result, the food inside the microwave is overcooked, and there are chances of potential danger in such situations.

All you have to do is, open the door or disconnect the microwave from the electric supply.

Usually, this issue is caused if the electric unit is at fault.

Check the door interlock switch, and see if it is at fault.

Replace it with the new one.

Loose wire connections in the control board will also cause this issue.

Replace the control board if you find it defective.

3. Microwave light is out

A light bulb in your microwave is useful in indicating your device’s on and off status.

If the light is not working, you may not know if the microwave is switched on or not.

In such a case, you must check if the light bulb is defective.

Consider replacing the light bulb if you find it faulty.

Or else check if the defective control board is causing this issue.

Cooking takes longer than normal:

If you notice your microwave taking longer to cook the food, it might be due to the faults in the power connections.

Check if your microwave receives enough voltage and current required to cook the food.

A faulty power cord will also cause this issue.

In such a case, replace it with the new one.

Check the internal parts of the microwave, and seek help from a professional to figure out the issue.

You can run a quick test to confirm if your microwave is taking a long time to cook.

Fill a bowl with a glass of water, and place it inside the microwave.

Switch on the microwave and set the cooking time.

After the cooking time has ended, take out the bowl and check if the water is hot enough.

If not, you can confirm your microwave is running slow.

4. A burning smell

A burning smell in the microwave is a serious issue you must not ignore.

It is usually caused by wiring or electrical issues.

If you sense the burning smell when the microwave is running, switch it off immediately.

In some cases, it may also occur due to the debris spilled around the microwave, which is left uncleaned.

You can prevent this by cleaning the interior of the microwave with a soft sponge after every use.

In other cases, some parts of the microwave might have burned out, and you will need to replace those parts.

Seek professional help if you have no experience, as microwaves contain high voltages of electricity even after you’ve unplugged them.

Final thoughts

Don’t panic and run to the repair shop immediately when you face trouble with your Whirlpool microwave. You must be aware of some procedures which you can do yourself before spending dollars on the repair.

One such procedure is to reset your whirlpool microwave. Sometimes, resetting your microwave will solve minor software glitches and other common issues. You can perform a soft or hard reset to fix the issues in the microwave. Follow the steps mentioned in the article to reset your whirlpool microwave.

You can reset your microwave when you face the common problems mentioned in the article. Still, you should not reset it too often without a necessity, as it can damage your microwave.

Related Articles:

Reference: Whirlpool Official Manual, Whirlpool Troubleshooting.

10 Reasons Your LG Microwave Is Not Heating (+Fix)

Written by Jeniffer Smith in Microwave,Appliances

A microwave, not heating, can be very frustrating. Your microwave might not heat due to some simple issues or severe problems. You are at the right place if you have an LG microwave and want to know why it’s not heating.

Your LG microwave might not turn on if you haven’t closed the door properly. Check the door and make sure it’s closed right. The next step is to check the fuse and ensure it’s not blown. A faulty diode can also prevent the microwave from heating. If so, call a professional to fix the same.

Other errors and problems can also cause your LG microwave not to heat. I will discuss all the possible issues in this article and give you the fix. So, keep reading.

Why is my LG microwave not heating?

In my years of dealing with appliances, dealing with microwave issues is the toughest as, in most cases, you will need to seek professional help.

A microwave uses large voltages of electricity, and any wrong step can be lethal.

But there are a few ways to know what is wrong with your microwave, and I will help you with that.

Here are 10 common reasons why your LG microwave doesn’t heat:

1. Faulty outlet

We often overlook this, but sometimes, the issue might not be with your microwave altogether.

The electric outlet might be at fault.

You can check this by unplugging the microwave from its current outlet and plugging it into another one.

Place a glass of water inside the microwave, turn it on, and check if it is heating.

After turning the microwave off, if you find that the water is hot, you know that the microwave is working fine and the outlet is at fault.

But, if the microwave still doesn’t heat, continue reading.

2. Function errors

Another common reason that prevents your LG microwave from heating is the errors with the codes you see on display.

Each error code signifies different errors.

Let’s take a look at them:

Error code	Indication
Door	The door is open. Check if something is not letting the door close properly.
F1	Thermistor sensing error or no heat.
F2	No heat even after 10 seconds.
F3	The thermistor temperature doesn’t reduce even after the cooking/heating ends.
F4	Error in the humidity sensor.
F5	Error in the damper switch.

This table demonstrates the basic error codes and what they indicate.

The best way to fix most of these is to reset your microwave.

How do I reset my LG microwave?

Here are the steps to reset your LG microwave:

Turn the microwave off and unplug it from the electric outlet.
Leave it like that for 15 seconds.
Plug the appliance in and turn it on.
Place a mug with water and turn the cooking on for 30 minutes.

Check if the water heats.

If not, you should consider all the points I’ve mentioned later.

3. Faulty door switch

An LG microwave usually comes with 3-4 door switches, and these door switches help the door close properly.

These switches also signal the appliance that it is safe to start heating.

If one or more of these are at fault, the microwave will not heat.

To know if this is the case, follow these steps:

Get a multimeter.
Open the microwave door, test each door switch with the multimeter, and check if they have continuity. Close the door, and while you do so, the multimeter should make a beep sound. If it doesn’t beep for any of the switches, you must replace them.
Replace the ones that don’t have continuity.
Discharge the capacitor for 15 minutes.
Now use a screwdriver to unscrew the microwave top.
Remove the grill to access the control panel.
Unscrew the two screws of the control panel and remove the panel.
Remove the switch assembly by unscrewing and pulling it up without damaging the wires.
Push the release tab to pop the door switches out.
You can get new door switches on Amazon based on your LG microwave model and plug them into the wire connector.
Reinstall all the parts and test the microwave to know if it is heating.

4. Faulty diode

A diode is an important part of the microwave that Alternating Current power to Direct current power.

It doubles the voltage to almost 5,000!

If the diode of your LG microwave has burned out, the machine won’t have enough voltage to heat.

You need to check the diode and decide if this is the case.

One easy way to know that your diode is at fault is that you will get an electrical burning smell.

You might also notice cracks or blisters on the diode.

The location of the diode will depend on the microwave model.

I do not suggest working on this yourself as the diode contains large voltages of electricity even when you turn the microwave off or unplug it.

It is best to consult a licensed professional to handle this.

But here are the steps for replacing a faulty diode to give you a basic idea:

Unplug the microwave from the electric outlet.
Take out the glass tray and the glide roller and keep them aside.
Unscrew the screws using a screwdriver to remove the venting.
After that, unscrew the screws that secure the control panel.
Lift it and separate it from the microwave.
You will then notice the access panel, which you must remove.
And then, you will be able to access the diode.
You can test it with a multimeter.
Discharge the capacitor’s stored electrical charge to avoid the chances of hazards.
Detach the old diode and install the new one by attaching the ends properly and securing it with screws.
Reinstall all the parts you had dismounted one by one and keep securing them with screws.
Plug the microwave back into the electric outlet.

Test the microwave and check if it is working.

5. Faulty magnetron

A faulty magnetron is often why your LG microwave might not heat.

It is responsible for using high-voltage DC to heat the food.

If the magnetron burns, you will need to replace it or get a new appliance.

The cost of replacing the magnetron can range between $100-250.

Here is how you can check if the magnetron is at fault:

Unplug the microwave from the electric outlet.
Ensure that the high-voltage capacitor is fully discharged before proceeding with the next steps.
Remove all the microwave parts, as I mentioned in the previous point.
You will have access to the magnetron, a large square unit made of metal.
Unplug the wires from the magnetron.
Set your multimeter to the highest ohm.
Take the multimeter probes and touch one to the magnetron housing and the other to the magnetron terminal.
Check the reading. The magnetron is not at fault if it is less than 1 ohm. But if the reading is greater than 1 ohm, you must replace it.

It is best to seek professional help to get this done.

Since replacing the magnetron is so expensive, many suggest getting a new microwave.

6. Faulty High-voltage capacitor

This part of the microwave converts A/C current to D/C current and doubles the voltage of the magnetron.

So, if this is at fault, the magnetron will not have enough power to heat.

If the high-voltage capacitor of your microwave fails, the entire circuit will fail to function.

The capacitor is near the magnetron, so you must access it using the same steps I mentioned earlier.

Don’t forget to unplug the microwave and discharge the capacitor fully.
The capacitor is located at different places for different models so look up the user manual or guide to understand where it is located.
Once you have access to the capacitor, get a VOM meter and touch the heads to the terminal of the capacitor. Use insulated metal pliers to do this.
Check the reading, and if you find that the capacitor is at fault, you must replace it.
Use a flat-tipped screwdriver to unscrew the terminal screws or use needle-nose pliers if the terminal screws lie behind plastic tubing.
Make sure to wear proper gloves, so you are protected.
Wait for 5 seconds before removing the capacitor.
Replace the old capacitor with a new one and reassemble the microwave.

7. Faulty high-voltage transformer

The high-voltage transformer sends power to the magnetron.

If the transformer is at fault, it will produce a burning smell, and you might also notice sparks.

If you continue using the microwave even after this, there can be hazards.

However, the microwave wouldn’t heat at this point.

Here’s how you check and replace the transformer:

Unplug the microwave from the outlet.
Unassemble the microwave using the steps I mentioned earlier in this article.
Get a voltmeter and touch each head to the terminals using insulated pliers.
If the reading comes between 50-70 Ω, then the transformer is fine, but if not, you will need to replace it.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the mounting screws that secure the grill.
Now open the microwave door, slide, and lift the grill to remove it.
Remove the glass tray and glide rollers.
Allow the appliance to rest on its back while you unscrew the bottom panel.
After removing the bottom panel, take the microwave back to its normal position and unscrew the cabinet.
After this, release the stored electricity using needle-nose pliers to touch both terminals at the same time.
Disconnect the six transformer wires and remove the screws.
Remove the old transformer and replace it with the new one.
Place the new transformer on the base and mount the screws to secure it.
Reassemble the microwave parts and plug the microwave back.

Test it and check if it functions and heats.

Also read: Can You Run A Microwave With A Generator?

8. Faulty Thermo protector

The Thermo protector is responsible for cutting off the power supply if the microwave overheats.

A tripped Thermo protector can prevent your microwave from heating.

You can confirm if this is at fault by checking the fuses that would appear dark and scorched.

Switch off and unplug your LG microwave.
Use a screwdriver to remove the screws of the front vent.
Now, remove the screws that secure the grill, slide, and remove it.
You will notice a small cylindrical instrument with metal terminals. This is the thermal fuse or protector.
Use your multimeter and switch it to the ohm setting before testing the Thermo protector. If the reading is infinite, you will need to replace it.
Remove the old one and replace it with the new fuse.
Reassemble the parts that you had removed.

Plug the microwave and turn it on to see if it heats right.

9. The child lock is active

The microwave will not heat despite having an electric supply when the child lock is active.

If you don’t know, the Child lock feature is designed to protect your appliances from your children.

When the Child lock feature is on, the control panel will not work.

So, you must deactivate this to make the microwave heat up.

If the Child lock is on, you will notice a lock icon or ‘L’ on display.
Press the ‘START’ button for 4 seconds.
You should see the icon or the letter ‘L’ disappear from the display.

Try using the microwave after this, and it should heat.

10. Defective Main control board

This rarely happens, so come to this one after you have checked everything else is working fine.

If the control board doesn’t work, you will not be able to operate the microwave, and therefore, it will not heat.

Unplug the microwave.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the 2 screws above the grill to remove it.
You will notice a screw on the right side above the control panel. Unscrew it to remove the control panel.
Unplug all the wires and connections and replace the old control panel with the new one.
You can then reattach all the connections and assemble all the microwave parts.

Final words

Your LG microwave might not be heating due to the above reasons I explained. Make sure that you carefully go through each to find the exact problem.

However, since the microwave deals with high voltages of electricity, make sure you follow all the necessary precautions, like wearing gloves and letting the microwave discharge before handling its parts.

And if you feel unsure at any step, consider consulting licensed experts to avoid the chances of hazards.

Reference: LG Official Microwave manual, LG Error Codes Official guide, LG Microwave Reset.

8 Reasons Your Dryer Makes Loud Banging Noise (+Fix)

Written by Jeniffer Smith in Dryer,Appliances

A dryer making a banging noise is annoying and indicates certain faults that will affect the efficiency of the drying cycle. If unnoticed, it can cause severe harm to the device. And in the long run, you will have to replace the dryer.

A dryer making the banging noise can be due to a damaged baffle. If the baffle is cracked or damaged, you must replace it. A defective motor can also cause a loud banging noise. Test it with the multimeter and if it is defective, replace it. Also, check the drum roller axles for possible damages.

In this article, I will help you determine the cause of the banging noise in your dryer. You will also know the step-by-step process to fix the issue. So, keep reading.

Why is my dryer making a loud banging noise? (+Fix)

The dryer making a loud banging noise will be the most annoying experience.

It will be a more peace-ruining experience if your laundry room is next to your bedroom.

I encountered a similar experience with my dryer once.

It was hard to find out why it was making such noise initially, but after researching and talking to experts, I figured it out.

If your dryer makes such noises, I don’t want you to waste time.

So, I have shared everything I learned from my experience in this article.

Also read: 6 Reasons Your Dryer Is Making Rattling Noise (+Fix)

8 reasons why your dryer makes a banging noise

Here are the common reasons that lead to a dryer making a banging noise.

1. A faulty drum slide

A drum slide is located on the front side at the top or the bottom of the dryer.

It acts as the support system to the dryer’s drum on either side.

The drum glides are in the same position in all the dryers.

Generally, they are made of plastic, nylon, and Teflon materials to give the drum a smooth surface to rotate.

In the long run, drum glides wear out to produce a loud noise.

In such a case, you must replace the drum glides.

Follow these steps to replace them:

Unplug the dryer from the electric outlet to prevent any hazards.
In case you have a gas dryer, turn off the gas valve.
Disconnect the lint screen from the dryer’s top panel. Remove the screws securing the lint housing to the top panel using a screwdriver.
Using a putty knife, lift the top panel to unlock the tabs securing the top panel with the dryer. Pull off the top panel, and keep it aside.
Now, it is time to remove the front panel. Remove the screws securing the front panel with the dryer using a slot screwdriver.
Disconnect the wire harness. Lift the front panel from the dryer, and disconnect the bottom hangers. Disconnect the front panel completely and keep it in a safe place.
Access the drum of the dryer. Before removing the drum, you must note the configuration of the belt on the idler pulley on the motor. Capture a photo of it for future reference.
Remove the drum bearing by releasing the tabs. Pull off the drum bearings.
Prepare the new drum bearing to replace.
Place the new drum bearing in place and secure it with the tabs.
Reinstall the drum and refer to the picture you took. Connect the idler pulley and the drive with the motor.
Reinstall the front panel by securing it with the screws and connecting the wire harness.
Place the top panel into the position. Fix it in the position.
Reattach the lint housing by securing it with the screws.
Reattach the lint screen.
Plug in the dryer with the electric outlet. Turn on the gas valve.

Run the dryer and check if the noise has vanished.

2. A defective drum bearing

The drum bearing is the important part that supports the rotation of the pulley when the motor is turned on.

A drum bearing connected with the sleeve bushing looks like a ball in some dryers.

In others, it is more like a socket.

As it continuously works to make the rotation happen, it wears out in time, and you must replace it to eliminate the loud banging noise.

Here is how you can replace the drum bearing:

Unplug the dryer from the electric outlet. Turn off the gas valve if you have a gas dryer.
Access the dryer’s drum by removing the back and top panels.
Remove the drum of your dryer by removing the idler pulley and the drive belt.
Check if the bearing is at fault. Remove the bearing by removing the screws attached to it.
Replace the new bearing and secure it with the screws.
Reinstall the drum by attaching the idler pulley and the drive belt.
Reinstall the front and the panel by securing it with the screw you removed.
Plug in the dryer to the electric outlet. Turn on the gas valve in the case of the gas dryer.

Run the dryer and check if the issue is solved.

3. Faulty drum rollers and shaft

Drum support rollers are located in the drum supporting its rotation.

You can locate the drum rollers at the rear side of the dryer.

Some dryers have drum rollers on the front side.

If the drum rollers are defective, they won’t let the drum rotate freely, and it will create a loud noise.

In such a case, you must replace the drum rollers and shaft.

Follow these steps to replace the drum support rollers and shaft:

Start by unplugging your dryer from the electric outlet. Turn off the gas valve in case you own a gas dryer.
Disconnect the lint screen. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding the lint housing with the dryer.
Lift the top panel of the dryer using the putty knife. Insert the putty knife at the edge of the dryer’s top panel, and pull off the panel to disconnect it from the dryer. Keep it aside.
Disconnect the wire harness attached to the front panel of the dryer.
Remove the screws securing the front panel with the dryer. Pull off the front panel by disconnecting it from the bottom bangs and keep it aside.
Access the drum. Note the configuration of the idler pulley and the drive belt.
Take a picture of the configuration for future reference.
Lift the drum by removing the drive belt and the idler pulley. Keep the drum and keep it aside.
Use a slot screwdriver to pull the triangular washer off the roller.
Disconnect the drum roller from the shaft.
Purchase the new drum roller based on the model of your dryer.
Install the new drum roller to the shaft. Reattach the triangular washer.
Reattach the drum. Refer to the picture you took to connect the idler pulley and the drive belt. Fix the drive belt on the motor pulley.
Reconnect the wire harness and attach the front panel to the dryer. Secure it with the screws you removed.
Reattach the top panel of your dryer. Place the lint housing in place and secure it with the screws. Reinstall the lint screen to the lint housing.
Plug in the dryer with the electricity. Turn on the gas valve.

Run the dryer and check if the banging noise has vanished.

4. A faulty drive belt

A drive belt can be wrapped around the drum and extended around the drive pulley.

A drive pulley is attached to the motor shaft.

A motor shaft helps the drive belt to spin around the drum.

If the drive belt is damaged, you must replace it.

Follow the steps mentioned below to replace the drive belt:

Start by disconnecting the dryer from the electricity. Turn off the gas valve if you have the gas dryer.
Remove the back and the front panel. Access the drum located inside the dryer.
You can find the belt around the drum. Pull out the damaged drive belt.
Purchase the new belt depending on the model of your dryer.
Replace the new drive belt by wrapping it around the idler pulley. And wrap[ it through the motor pulley.
Reinstall the front and back panels.
Plug in the dryer. Turn on the gas dryer valve if you have the gas dryer.

Run the dryer and check whether the noise persists.

5. A faulty idler pulley

The main purpose of the idler pulley is to prevent the drive belt from getting off balance.

It provides the grip to the belt to keep the drum in rotation during the drying cycle.

It spins at high speed.

In the long run, an idler pulley will be worn out, producing a loud banging noise in the dryer.

In such a case, you must replace the idler pulley.

Start by disconnecting the electricity from the dryer. In the case of the gas dryer, turn off the gas valve.
Remove the top and back panels to access the dryer’s drum. Disconnect the wire harness while removing the top panel.
Access the drum, and note how the idler pulley is connected with the drive belt passing through the motor pulley. Please take a picture of it on your mobile.
Pull out the front part of the drum to locate the idler pulley and the motor.
Lift the idler pulley from the base of the dryer.
Purchase a new idler pulley based on the model of your dryer.
Install the new idler pulley and place it in the position. Wrap the drive around the motor pulley.
Reattach the front and back panels. Reconnect the wire harness.
Plug in the dryer with the electricity. Turn on the gas valve if you have the gas dryer.

Run the dryer and check if the issue is solved.

If the dryer still makes the banging noise, try the following fixes.

6. A loosened blower wheel

A blower wheel collects the air from the heating chamber, which travels through the drum to exhaust through the dryer’s vent.

It is connected to the motor with a clamp securing it in place.

A blower wheel has a plastic body that will wear out over time.

If the blower wheel is damaged, you must replace it.

Follow the steps mentioned below to replace the bowel wheel:

Start by unplugging the dryer from the electricity. Turn off the gas valve in case you have a gas dryer.
Remove the back and front panels. Disconnect the wire harness from the front panel.
Access the drum of your dryer. Lift the dryer belt to lift the drum out of the washer.
Disconnect the door switch and the wire harness.
Access the blower wheel housing. Remove the screws securing it with the dryer. Remove the blower wheel housing and place it in a comfortable place to replace the blower wheel.
Remove the blower wheel from the housing. You can spin it manually to remove the blower wheel.
Purchase the new blower wheel based on the model of your dryer.
Replace the blower wheel by holding the bolt back at the housing.
Reattach the blower wheel housing in the bracket. Secure it with the screws.
Reconnect all the wire harnesses you disconnected.
Reattach the drum to the dryer. Connect the idler pulley and the drive belt.
Reattach the front and back panels.
Plug in the dryer to the electric outlet. If you have a gas dryer, turn on the gas valve.

Run the dryer and check if the noise has disappeared.

7. Damaged baffles

A drum baffle is used to fluff the clothes during the drying cycle.

If the drum baffles are damaged, clothes will stick to the side wall of the drum.

It will also cause a banging noise in the dryer.

Follow these steps to replace the drum baffles:

Start by disconnecting the dryer from the electricity.
Pull off the top panel from the dryer using a pulley knife.
Access the drum of the dryer. Spin the drum manually to check if the baffles are loosened. Locate the screws holding the baffles in place.
Using a nut driver, remove the screws from the baffles. Pull the baffles from the drum.
Purchase new baffles based on the model of your dryer.
Reinstall the new baffles to the drum. Secure it with the screws.
Reattach the top panel to the dryer. Reconnect all the wire harnesses you removed.
Plug in the dryer. Turn on the gas valve if you have the gas dryer.

8. A defective motor

A drive motor rotates the blower wheel and the dryer drum to perform the drying cycle.

A drive belt and the motor pulley are attached to the motor.

If the motor is damaged, it produces varieties of mixed noises in the dryer.

In such a case, you must replace the motor.

Follow the steps mentioned below to replace the defective motor.

Start by disconnecting the power source from the dryer. Turn off the gas valve if you have the gas dryer.
Remove the top and front panels to access the interiors of the dryer.
Lift the drum using the belt, disconnect it and keep it aside.
Remove the blower wheel housing to access the drive motor.
Locate the motor. Disconnect all the wires connected to the motor.
Disconnect the motor from the dryer and keep it in a safe place.
Test the motor with the multimeter in an Rx1 setting. The reading must be zero or close to zero. If not, you must replace the motor.
Purchase the motor based on the model of your dryer.
Replace with the new motor. Connect all the wires with the motor.
Place the motor in place and secure it with the screws.
Reattach the blower wheel housing in the bracket. Secure it with the screws.
Place the drum and connect the drive belt and the idler pulley.
Reconnect all the wires you disconnected.
Reattach the front and back panels. Secure them with the screws you removed.
Plug in the dryer with the electric outlet. Turn off the gas valve.

What does a worn dryer belt sound like?

A dryer belt plays a significant role in the rotation of the drum by being part of the pulley system.

If the dryer belt is broken, it won’t let the dryer rotate the drum.\

It will affect the efficiency of the dryer.

If the dryer belt is damaged, it will make a thumping and banging noise.

How much does it cost to replace dryer drum rollers?

The average cost to replace the dryer drum ranges between $50 and $100.

A drum roller will hold the drum in place.

You can locate the drum rollers at the rear side of the dryer.

In the long run, the drum roller will wear out and be damaged.

Follow the steps mentioned above to replace the drum rollers.

How many years do dryers last?

The life span of the dryer depends on how well you maintain the dryer.

It is advised to do the deep cleaning twice a year.

It is good to deep clean the dryer lint filter and the vent monthly.

If maintained well, a dryer will last for 10 to 13 years.

Final thoughts

As I mentioned in the article, a dryer making the banging noise can be due to the various defective parts.

Before trying to fix the issue, you must figure out the cause. As a next step, you can follow the step-by-step process mentioned in the article to fix the bangling noise in the dryer.

To eliminate such annoying noises, you must deep clean the dryer often. You should also avoid overloading the dryer to increase the efficiency of the drying cycle.

8 Best Generator With Low THD (Inverter, Dual Fuel & Other Options)

Written by Arthur Smith in Generator,Electricals

Generators are gadgets that will supply you with power during a power outage or load-shedding. All of them will have THD (Total Harmonic Distortion). But, the generators need to have THD as low as possible.

Honda, Westinghouse, and Generac are the best generators with low THD. These can provide less than 5 to 6% of THD, which is quite appreciating. Others include DuroMax, Champion, Jackery, and Pulsar. However, Westinghouse & Champion are best in terms of noise.

It is always better to own generators with low THD. High THD generators can damage the sensitive electronics of your house. This article will discuss some best generators and inverter generators with low THD.

What is a THD?

THD stands for Total Harmonic Distortion.

It is the measurement of the distortion produced by the amplifier of the generators.

The generators transform the kinetic energy into electrical energy by moving the magnetic fields created by the coils around the armature.

The magnetic fields will interact and generate voltage and frequency.

When the additional voltage is generated, the interaction makes a mutual inductance contributing harmonics to the output signal generated by the 3-phase, 4-four wire AC system working at 50Hz.

These additional frequencies are called harmonic distortions.

Generators with low THD will produce much more high-quality electricity than those with higher THDs.

Generators with high THD can severely damage several sensitive electrical devices like plasma televisions, computers, modern HVAC systems, amplifiers, air conditioners, etc.

It can also interfere with the power lines.

That is why experts recommend using generators that have low THD.

Best generators with low THD

Before you choose a generator with low THD, you must know what a good THD for the generator is.

Generally, the best generators will have a THD level of around 6%.

Some standard generators have 9% to 15% of THD. It is acceptable for the lights, sump pumps, and power tools.

But since the THD is quite high, it can damage sensitive appliances and reduce their lifespan.

Most publishers do not expose the THD percentage of the generators. So, be careful while buying generators.

If you do not see any THD percentage on the label of the generators, consider it unsafe for your house.

Below are some best generators with low THDs. Also, I will share my final verdict and my best pick at the end of this post, but first, go through the list and check the pros and cons of each one of them.

1. Honda EU2200i

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THD rate – Less than 6%

Rating – 5/5

Since the THD rating is less than 6%, it would be the best for your house, especially if you live in a suburban neighborhood and want to keep disturbances at low levels.

The generator is also good for camping and events where you will require quiet outdoor power.

The Honda generator is great because of its compact design and weight, less than 50lbs.

Its nature of producing very less noise while operating makes it more attractive.

The THD of the generator is less than 6% and, thus, perfect for easy transportation and fitting at any location.

You can close the vent on the gas cap and prevent fumes from coming out. It controls the strong smell in the surrounding that most generators release.

This model of Honda also comes with a ‘low oil’ alert, where the generator reduces the engine’s operation.

That stops overworking of the generator and causes less damage.

The ‘fuel shut-off’ closes the generator when most of the fuel is used.

It prevents the generator from using any stale fuel and harming the machine.

The machine also monitors the carbon monoxide levels.

It shuts off automatically without reducing the CO levels too low, which can be dangerous.

The generator will also connect to another generator of the same model number to give you an additional power supply.

You can generate the power using your phone’s Bluetooth and dedicated apps.

Honda EU2200i gives a maximum output of 120 volts and conserves energy.

It can power the refrigerator, HVAC system, and also microwave.

However, you still have to limit the overall power usage.

The generator will work 8 hours with one fuel tank, delivering reliable and clean power.

2. Westinghouse WGen 12000DF

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THD – Less than 5%

Rating – 4.8/5

The generator is great for big houses that use too much electricity daily.

The generator operates using gas or propane and can run up to 11 hours using one single fuel tank.

This Westinghouse model has a remote start. So, you can stay in bed to start it.

It can run all household appliances along with entertainment devices.

Due to its THD level lower than 5%, it will keep sensitive electronics safe.

The generator model does not have any ST switch, but you can buy it separately because it has an ST switch outlet.

You can connect the generator to the breaker box using a transfer switch to switch it on automatically whenever needed.

You can also use GenerLink.

Despite so many advantages, one drawback is the generator’s weight is very heavy, around 300 pounds, thus, making it unfit for transportation.

But, the model can tolerate heavy storms and is ideal for areas with such rough weather.

3. Generac XT8500EFI

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THD – Less than 5%

Rating – 4.8/5

The new Generac generators have ‘True Power Technology, for which the THD has been minimized to less than 5%.

Lower THD helps keep your electrical machines safe, especially sensitive ones.

Like the Westinghouse, this generator has a low oil shutdown feature to protect the machine from quick damage.

Control guards and covered outlets save the generator the weak areas of the generator so that it can tolerate heavy storms.

The generator weighs 233 pounds, heavier than Honda but lighter than Westinghouse.

The machine has 10-inch wheels and fold-down locking handles, which help you move and store.

One attractive thing about the generator is it does not have a carburetor. So, it can use fuel more efficiently but emits low emissions.

That is why you do not get any smell from the generator.

The generator also has an idle control, running for around 9.5 hours on a single fuel tank.

Sometimes, the online review declares it to be a little noisy. So, you must check it before buying.

Best inverter generators with low THD

The inverter generators are slightly different from the regular generators.

Inverters are the latest type of generators with the latest technologies and updated versions.

They have less THD than the generators discussed earlier, i.e., less than 3%.

The regular generators can produce AC (alternating current) current, but the inverters produce 3 phases of current.

The inverters will give a clean current, but regular ones do not produce clean energy. Clean energy is safer for sensitive appliances.

However, some inverter generators will be good for sensitive electrical appliances.

1. Westinghouse iGen2200 Inverter generator

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THD – Less than 3%

The generator is quite portable and, thus, easy to carry around from one place to another. It weighs only about 46lbs.

Additionally, it is designed with a kickstart device and wireless connections.

You can also make it work by using your phone, thus letting you stay in bed and start.

But you need to stay within 80 feet of the generator.

You can run the generator for at least 12 hours with one single fuel tank.

The generator comes with a steel frame responsible for reducing noise.

It creates a noise of around 52dBa, which is negligible if you live in a dense residential building.

Less than 3% is quite a low THD.

So it will not create a very loud noise and disturb anyone.

It contains 4 outlets, 2 sockets, a 30 amp power source, and 2 sockets with 120v 20 amp power source.

The generator is also water-resistant and, thus, can handle heavy rains.

The only problem with this generator can be with the oil change.

It is quite difficult due to the position of the dipstick.

2. Champion 2000-Watt Generator

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THD – Less than 3%

This generator stands out as one of the most affordable products.

This generator has very low THD, less than 3%, which is quite good. It will create noises around only 53dBa.

The Champion generator will function from one single tank for around 11 hours.

It has an automatic low-oil shut-off feature, saving your generator from using too much when the level is low. This feature keeps your machine safe and long-lasting.

You can move the generator easily from one place to another due to its lightweight. It will weigh only around 43.4lbs.

The generator has a Fuel Fill Assist LED with a push-button light on the right side of the handle.

The LED light illuminates the petrol fill area and makes you understand the refueling time in the dark.

The generator’s smart ‘Economy Mode’ reduces electrical overload, functions quietly, increases engine life and saves fuel economy.

The two best types of Champion generators are:

Best Dual Fuel generators with low THD

Dual Fuel generators are multi-fuel generators that use gasoline or propane as fuel to supply electricity to the appliances and your house.

Below are some best dual-fuel generators:

1. Champion 2000-watt Power Equipment 100402 generator

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It is an inverter generator belonging to the Champion inverter 2000-watt series, which I already discussed earlier.

It will keep the generator on for 11.5 hours on gasoline at 25% load.

The generator is also lightweight, around 40lbs, and has very low THD, less than 3%.

The noise level is around 53dB. It is quiet, but not as quiet as other best generators having low THD.

2. Westinghouse iGen4500DF inverter generator

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It is an advanced hybrid generator that provides clean and stable power for the sensitive electrical appliances of your house.

The generator runs on gasoline and propane and provides up to around 4500 watts.

It has 4 120V outlets that you can easily use for most household appliances.

The generator will give up to 4500W for 12 hours.

It can run up to 18 hours, which is great.

You can run the generator with a remote, provided you stay within 260 feet of the generator.

But, the generator is slightly heavier, weighing around 104lbs, and is expensive.

3. DuroMax XP2300iH

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Its running time is 6.5 hours at 50% load.

The generator is quiet due to the 52dB sound level and less than 3% THD.

Though the machine is portable, it is slightly heavier, not too much, and more expensive than the other products.

It weighs around 60lbs.

You can run it on either gasoline or propane.

The generator gives clean energy and prevents power surges, which is good for sensitive appliances like computers, mobiles, and tablets.

Despite so many good sides, the generator is heavy, and the run time is short.

Other generators with low THD

The above-discussed generators are the best ones with low THD.

They have very good features and are great for houses.

You can even carry some of them for camping trips.

Except these, there are a few more generators with less THD. Below is a list:

DuroMax XP1000E Gas-Powered Portable Generator
DuroMax XP13000HX Dual Fuel Portable Generator
Jackery Portable Power Station Explorer 240Wh backup, Lithium Battery, 110V/200W Pure Sine Wave AC Outlet, Solar Generator
Generac GP2500i Inverter
Pulsar 5,250W Dual Fuel Portable Generator with Switch and Go Technology, PG5250B

Can I lower the noise of a generator?

If you already have a generator that is quite noisy, you might need ways to lessen the noise.

Some simple tips to reduce noise are:

Get a quiet generator box.

Build up a quiet generator box for your noisy generator.

But, you must ensure that the generator does not overheat and you can easily access the power cord while in use.

Get a quiet box from a hardware store and buy a readymade weather cover.

Add a muffler to the generator.

Sometimes, some generators can have around 75dBa sound.

Adding a muffler to the generator reduces the noise of your generator.

If you are inexperienced in welding and other mechanics, call an expert mechanic who can do such things.

Also, consult an electrician before doing it.

Water absorption

It is a very simple way of reducing the noise of the generator.

All you need is a hose, water, and a bucket.

Attach one end of your hose to the generator exhaust and put the other end in a bucket filled with water.

Use a flex tube made of galvanized metal to prevent fire hazards.

The sound will go through the tube and get muffled by the water.

But you must keep the generator away from the water.

Add a small hole in the hose at the high point.

It will allow the passing out of the extra airflow and water.

It also keeps the water from sucking back to the generator.

Rubber absorption

This method is used to reduce medium noises.

Your generator will make too much noise if sitting over a concrete or hard area because the unit shakes when the engine runs.

Placing your generator over some soft surface, like rubber, can reduce the noise by suppressing the noise caused by the vibrations.

If you have gone camping or RVing, find a soft place to place your generator and avoid the noises.

Dry soil will also create such noise. So, you can use a rubber mat under the generator.

Plywood boards

Another way of numbing the generator noise is by using plywood boards. Besides, the method is quite cheap.

Lean 2-3 plywood boards around the generator.

Ensure you are not blocking the exhaust and airflow or leaning the board against the machine.

Create a box or triangle around your generator without touching the machine.

Redirect exhaust pipe

Sometimes, repositioning the exhaust pipe can reduce the generator noise.

Keep the exhaust pipe vertically to redirect the noise upward and reduce the noise.

The sound will move upwards and vanish into the sky.

So, which one is the best?

In the end, I would say that different generators are best in different points, for example:

Westinghouse iGen4500 and Champion 2000 watts are best at THD. They have less than 3% THD.
Regarding performance, price, and portability, Champion is a good one.
In the matter of safety, DuroMax XP2300iH is the best.
In noise, Champion 2000 and Westinghouse iGen4500 are the best.

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Final thoughts

There are multiple generators with low THDs.

Some of them are regular generators, and some are inverter generators.

All the generators mentioned in the article are good because they have less than 6% THD, which means they will function silently.

The inverters function more silently, as most of them have less than 3% THD.

If you have a generator with more noise, you can try the methods of noise reduction I have shared.

The procedures might not completely reduce the noise but will do it to a great extent.

What Size Sub Panel For Basement? (+Estimated Cost)

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Panels and Breakers,Electricals

Sub-panels in the basements help you run electrical appliances smoothly. Breakers are not enough because a basement will have multiple types of equipment. So, the right sub-panel size for the basement will depend on the number of appliances running.

Generally, the basement’s average sub-panel size will be around 100 to 125 amps. That would cost around $400 to $600. You can also install a 60 amp sub-panel based on the appliances you have in your basement. A smaller sub-panel can reduce the installation cost.

The cost may increase or decrease depending on several factors, like labor per hour, wire cost, work challenges, etc. A sub-panel is not compulsory, but having one allows you to run electrical appliances smoothly.

Does the basement need a sub-panel?

A basement is an underground floor inside the building.

It allows you to have extra storage for all types of materials without comprising your house’s indoor or outdoor space.

When you think of wiring the basement of your house, you need to install a sub-panel due to the number of appliances.

A sub-panel works as an extension of your main electrical panel that is the main panel.

If you install too many appliances, the main panel size becomes insufficient to handle.

So, installing a sub-panel will give the appliances enough power and keep everything safe.

Sometimes, there is little space left for some extra lights and plugs.

A sub-panel can help you with that.

How to determine the size of the sub-panel for the basement?

To know the right size of the sub-panel, you need to know what you will add to the basement.

You can use a lower amp sub-panel for lighter appliances, like some light fixtures and outlets.

But if you have heavier appliances, like washers, computers, or furnaces, you need a sub-panel with a higher amp.

You have to know the wattage of the appliances and the number of amps they draw.

If you need help understanding, consult an electrician to know the right sub-panel size.

What size of sub-panel do I need for the basement?

Some new houses have 200 amp breaker boxes to handle the newly finished basements.

Some appliances with their breakers in the basement include:

2 regular outlet circuits rated at 20 amps
2 GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protected circuits rating at 20 amps
2 light circuits rated at 15 amps
1 optional electric heat circuit needs a double 20 amp breaker taking 2 spaces in the panel

If you want to have these things in your sub-panel, you can add up a 100 amp sub-panel or 125 amp sub-panel.

Some people do not use any electrical appliances in the basement except for some lights and outlets.

For that, you can have 60 amps sub-panel.

It completely depends on how much wattage you receive from the number of appliances you have added to the basement.

You can add as low as 60 amps or as high as 125 amp sub-panel.

You can also use a higher amp, around 200 amps, depending on the appliances, for example, washers, furnaces, or dryers.

But, they also must have their own breaker.

The more appliances you have, the more power they will draw.

To keep them running smoothly, you must use a higher amp sub-panel.

There is nothing wrong with installing a bigger panel.

It is always better.

A bigger sub-panel will make the appliances run smoothly and allow you to add more appliances in the future.

An experienced electrician can help you get the right size of sub-panel for your basement.

What size of wire is needed for the sub-panel?

The amp rating will tell the wire size for your basement’s sub-panel.

If you have a 100 amp sub-panel, you will require a 4 gauge wire to run the panel.

A sub-panel will have separate neutral and ground wires.

In that sense, you can have 4 gauge hot and neutral wires and a 6 gauge ground wire.

Here is a list of wire sizes depending on the sub-panel size:

Sub-panel size	Wire size
60 amp	6 gauge copper or 4 gauge aluminum
100 amp	4 gauge copper or 2 gauge aluminum
125 amp	1 gauge copper or 1/0 or 2 gauge aluminum

You can use an oversized wire without any issues.

A thicker gauge keeps the voltage drop and resistance low and helps the appliances run smoothly.

On the contrary, a thinner and smaller wire can melt and start a fire.

What is the cost of installing a sub-panel in the basement?

The cost varies based on multiple factors like location, labor, wire, sub-panel cost, and work challenges.

If you run any underground lines, that can cost nearly $3,000.

Otherwise, the average cost to install one complete sub-panel in the basement ranges from around $400 to $550.

Including the labor and materials, installing a single sub-panel can cost between $500 and $1,300. It usually takes three hours to install.

Sometimes, the cost can reach up to $1,750 if you install a sub-panel between 100 and 150 amps with 4 to 20 circuits.

So, expect the following cost of a sub-panel installation according to the amperage rating:

Amperage rating	Cost of a sub-panel
60 amps	$400 to $550
100 amps	$400 to $1,000
125 amps	$1,000 to $1,250
150 amps	$1,000 to $1,750
200 amps	$1,800 – $2,500

The price can increase or decrease due to the following factors:

Sub-panel

The cost of the sub-panel size will affect the price first.

Different sub-panel sizes will have different prices, for example

Sub-panel sizes	Cost
100 amp	$100 to $200
150 amp	$150 to $250
200 amp	$250 to $350

Wire cost

Two wires are mainly used for electrical purposes – copper and aluminum.

Copper wires are thicker and good in conductivity, resistance, and strength.

That is why they are costly.

On the contrary, aluminum wires are thinner and less good in conductivity and resistance.

Aluminum wires are good for shorter distances but not longer ones.

So, they are cheaper than copper wires.

However, you can get good results from copper-clad aluminum wires and save money.

They have copper fittings that give some copper benefits.

Along with the material, the distance will also affect the cost.

For example, a 2 gauge copper wire for 1000 feet can cost around $1,600.

So, the wire cost can highly increase the average cost of sub-panel installation.

Labor cost

The labor cost depends on the work challenge.

Generally, the labor cost remains between $50 and $100.

Sometimes, it can be between $100 and $200.

What size of breaker is needed for the basement?

The basement lights can be on the general-purpose circuit, measuring 15 or 20-amp breakers.

But, if you use any heavy appliances like a furnace or washer, they should have their own breakers.

For a furnace, it should have a 20 amp breaker.

For a washer, you should keep a 20 amp breaker.

You can wire a receptacle in a 20 amp circuit.

The price of the 15 and 20-amp circuit breakers will be the same.

You can use 12 gauge wires for both 15 and 20 amps.

You can also use a 14 gauge wire for 15 amps.

What should be the distance between the sub-panel and the main panel?

The longer the distance is between the sub-panel and the main panel, the more price you have to pay while installing the sub-panel.

Besides, the sub-panel must easily access the main panel as it will be feeding from the main breaker.

Also, you must install the panel far above the floor, about 4.5 to 5 feet.

The distance from the main panel to the basement’s sub-panel should be roughly 10 feet.

It can be less than 10 feet, like around 4-5 feet, but it should not exceed 10 feet.

Sometimes, the sub-panel is installed beside the main panel.

It allows you to cut the power of the sub-panel directly from the main panel.

Can I install the sub-panel?

You need to be an experienced and licensed electrician to have the right to install a sub-panel.

Besides, you might not do the job as well as the electrician can.

So, you might make some mistakes, delay the work, and increase your expenses.

So, it is better to leave this to the electrician.

However, some states’ NEC does not allow laypersons to do such work. So, without an electrician, you cannot install it.

Should there be GFCI protection?

GFCI protection is used mostly in damp areas like the kitchen, bathroom, basement, or pool areas.

A basement is a damp place.

The NEC and other experts suggest using GFCI protections for the basement.

So, you must have them.

Whenever they detect any high moisture content, they will trip off.

GFCIs have a good, responsive feature towards moisture.

Tripping off will save you from short circuits and other electrical accidents.

Things will be easier if you get to know the methods of use.

It will also allow you to know the difference.

The GFCI outlets have ‘test’ and ‘reset’ buttons.

To reset the outlet, you need to press only the reset button.

But you need to reset it manually if it is a breaker.

Should I bond neutral and ground in the sub-panel?

It would be best not to bond the neutral and ground wires in the sub-panel.

The neutral wire carries the returning current of the main power source.

On the other hand, the ground wire will not carry any current unless there is a short circuit.

Bonding the two wires makes the ground wire hot. As a result, the ground wire will give you short circuits.

However, you can bond the two wires in the main panel.

Final thoughts

There is no exact size of the sub-panel for the basement.

The number of appliances running decides the right size.

It can be as low as 60 amps or as high as 200 amps.

If you have only some lights and outlets, a 60 amp sub-panel will be enough.

But, if you have many lights, circuits, GFCIs, washers, dryers, furnaces, or other appliances, you need a sub-panel ranging from 100 to 150 amps.

It is best to have a big one to add more appliances in the future.

The cost to install a sub-panel range between $400 and $1,750. But, it highly depends on the sub-panel size, labor cost, work challenge, location, wire cost, etc.

FAQs

Is 100 amp sub-panel enough?

Most of the houses have a 100 amp electrical service.

It is the minimum panel suggested by the NEC codes.

A 100 amp service can provide enough power to a medium-sized house that runs several 120-volt appliances.

Will upgrading increase the electrical panel’s value?

Upgrading a panel will increase the electrical panel’s value.

But it is worth it.

Increasing the panel size will increase the resale value of your house and property and attract more people.

Can I run a 100 amp sub-panel off a 200 amp main panel?

You can do that without any issue, provided the breaker is not overloaded.

Where can I place the sub-panel in the basement?

Since the basement is a damp area, deciding the location of the sub-panel is quite concerning.

Generally, you must place a panel in a dry location.

Since it is a basement, you have to use GFCI protection.

Recent Posts

Light flashing inside my Whirlpool refrigerator

Why is my Whirlpool light flashing? (+Fix)

1. A faulty bulb

2. Issues with the dimmer switch

3. A broken switch

4. Wire connection issues

5. A faulty power cord

6. A defective circuit board

How do I reset my Whirlpool refrigerator?

How do you change the LED light on a whirlpool bottom freezer?

Final thoughts

Why does your whirlpool microwave need a reset?

1. Your whirlpool microwave is not heating properly.

2. Your microwave doesn’t start

3. The timer in your microwave doesn’t display the details properly

4. The turntable glass in the middle of the microwave is not rotating and making a weird noise

5. The microwave buttons are not functioning

Is there a reset button on the whirlpool microwave?

How can I reset my whirlpool microwave?

1. A soft reset

2. A hard reset

3. Resetting a microwave with a child lock switched on

When should I hard reset my whirlpool microwave?

Will resetting damage my whirlpool microwave?

How do you reset a microwave that won’t start?

Common issues with the whirlpool microwave

1. Microwave exhaust fan is not working

2. Microwave doesn’t shut off

3. Microwave light is out

4. A burning smell

Final thoughts

Why is my LG microwave not heating?

1. Faulty outlet

2. Function errors

How do I reset my LG microwave?

3. Faulty door switch

4. Faulty diode

5. Faulty magnetron

6. Faulty High-voltage capacitor

7. Faulty high-voltage transformer

8. Faulty Thermo protector

9. The child lock is active

10. Defective Main control board

Final words

Why is my dryer making a loud banging noise? (+Fix)

8 reasons why your dryer makes a banging noise

1. A faulty drum slide

2. A defective drum bearing

3. Faulty drum rollers and shaft

4. A faulty drive belt

5. A faulty idler pulley

6. A loosened blower wheel

7. Damaged baffles

8. A defective motor

What does a worn dryer belt sound like?

How much does it cost to replace dryer drum rollers?

How many years do dryers last?

Final thoughts

What is a THD?

Best generators with low THD

1. Honda EU2200i

2. Westinghouse WGen 12000DF

3. Generac XT8500EFI

Best inverter generators with low THD

1. Westinghouse iGen2200 Inverter generator

2. Champion 2000-Watt Generator

Best Dual Fuel generators with low THD

1. Champion 2000-watt Power Equipment 100402 generator

2. Westinghouse iGen4500DF inverter generator

3. DuroMax XP2300iH

Other generators with low THD

Can I lower the noise of a generator?

Get a quiet generator box.

Add a muffler to the generator.

Water absorption

Rubber absorption

Plywood boards

Redirect exhaust pipe

So, which one is the best?