Recent Posts

Conduit Size For 100, 200, 300, and 400 Amps Service

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Panels and Breakers,Electrical Wiring,Electricals 

Conduits protect the cables from physical damage that produce electricity in our houses. Since different amp services require different wire numbers and sizes, the conduit size will vary. 

Common electrical services include 100, 200, 300, and 400 amps. You need 1¼ inch conduit for 100 amps, 2 inches for 200 amps, 2.5 inches for 300 amps, and 3 inches for 400 amps. The size may differ based on the wire size and the number of wires to put inside the conduit. 

Multiple factors can affect the conduit size for these electrical services. This article will elaborate on the conduit sizes for 100, 200, 300, and 400 amp services, the factors to consider, and the NEC conduit size requirements. 

Determining conduit size based on the ampacity 

Determining the conduit size based on the ampacity of your electrical service takes work. 

The simplest way is to refer to the National Electric Code (NEC), which has tables about the right conduit size for different electrical services and the wire types and sizes. 

Determining the right conduit size is very important. 

It allows you to decide the number of wires or cables to pull without damaging the insulation and exposing the wires. 

Knowing the right conduit size will also help to avoid using an oversized or undersized conduit, preventing wire damage and increased cost. 

To determine the conduit size, you need to know certain things:

  • The number of conductors needed by the electrical service. 
  • The conductor size and material
  • The conduit type you are using
  • The cross-sectional area of the wires used (chapter 9 from NEC)

These will help you select the correct size for your electrical service. 

NEC (National Electric Code) conduit size requirements

To understand the conduit size requirements by NEC, you need to have the NEC book and open chapter 9.

According to the National Electric Code, you need to consider three factors to meet their conduit size requirements:

  • The number of cables to put in the conduit
  • The cross-section area of the cables
  • The number of bends in the conduit

Let’s take an example. 

You have four 8-gauge wires with THHN insulation and two 4-gauge wires with THW insulation. 

The 8-gauge wires will have a cross-section of 23.61 square mm or 0.03659 square inches. 

The 4-gauge wires will have a cross-section of 62.77 square mm or 0.09729 square inches. 

So, the total cross-sectional area of the wires will be:

(23.61 sq. mm) x 4 + (62.77 sq.mm) x 2 = 219.98 square mm. 

 Now, the NEC says that the conduit will provide 53% space for one wire, 31% space for 2 wires, and 40% space for 3 or more wires.

Based on this, you can determine the conduit size using the cross-sectional value you received earlier. 

If you use all 6 wires, you need 40% space in the conduit. So, divide the value by 0.4.

219.98 / 0.4 = 549.95 sq. mm. 

Based on this value, you need to find the conduit type by consulting the book. 

For example, if you use electric conduit tubing, the closest size is a 1-inch conduit, giving you at least 39% fill for three wires. 

Factors affecting the conduit size selection

A few factors will affect the conduit size selection :

  • The number of wires and area occupied by them
  • Number of bents 

The number of wires and area occupied. 

The US National Electric Code follows the following specifications while choosing the conduit size:

  • For 1 wire, the conduit should provide 53% space. 
  • For 2 wires, the conduit should give 31% space.
  • For 3 or more wires, the conduit should give 40% space. 

For example, let’s assume you have a 200 amp service. 

The entrance cable will have 3-wire conductors for a single phase or 4-wire conductors for a 3-phase service. 

The cable should receive at least 40% of the total conduit space. 

Wire thickness

Thick wires will need bigger conduits than thinner wires. 

If you use multiple thick wires, you need a slightly bigger conduit than the recommended ones. 

For example, if you have a 200 service and want to use copper wires, you need four 2 AWG copper wires. 

The recommended conduit size for a 200 amp service is 1.5 to 2 inches. 

You should upgrade the size to 2.5 inches for thicker wires. 

That is how the conduit size gets affected. 

Number of bents 

The number of 90-degree angle bending will also affect the conduit size. 

If you need more than two bends at a 90-degree angle, your conduit size will reduce from the average size. 

More than 2 bends will reduce the maximum space by 15%. 

Choosing conduit material for high ampacity service

Different conduit materials are used for the electrical services, and the material is chosen based on performance and reliability. 

Here are some best conduit material types you can use for high ampacity services. 

EMT or Electrical Metallic Tubing

Conduits made of metal are commonly used conduits. 

Despite being metallic, it is thin, which makes it easier to bend. 

However, the major disadvantage of metallic conduits is you can thread them. The material is ideal for concrete and indoor environments. 

Intermediate Metal Conduit 

The next material is intermediate metal or IMC, slightly thicker than the EMT. 

So it can handle the physical force and save the wires from physical damage. 

You can use IMC for high ampacity services for underground and outdoor purposes.

Rigid Metal Conduit 

A rigid metal conduit, or RMC, is the next commonly used conduit for electrical services. 

It is made of galvanized steel and contains different sizes. 

The material is strong, and you can connect threaded fitting to the conduit material. 

So, it can be ideal for high-ampacity services.

PVC conduits 

PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is considered ideal for most high-ampacity services. 

It is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and flexible. 

As a result, you can use it for outdoor purposes. 

But the downside of this conduit type is that it gets easily affected by the sun’s UV rays. 

So, for safety, do not expose the conduits to direct sunlight. 

There are two common types of PVC – Schedule 40 and Schedule 80. 

Based on the wire size and material, you can choose one of them. 

Reinforced Thermosetting Resin Conduit or RTRC

The next conduit material type is RTRC.

You can use it as an alternative to PVC conduits. 

These conduit types have multiple features that make them better than PVC conduits. 

The material is fiberglass. It is made with tension-winding strands of fiberglass over a rotating mandrel. 

The strands are impregnated with resin and then cured under high temperatures. 

The conduit is low-burn through, contains UV stability, and can maintain its shape. 

It is where it beats the PVC conduits. 

Common Conduit sizes for 100, 200, 300, and 400 amp service 

100 amp services are commonly used in smaller houses with a few electrical appliances. 

Most people upgrade their service to 200 and 300-amp services due to the increased usage of electrical appliances. 

400 amps are quite a huge service. 

Houses with multiple electrical appliances and a detached location will require a 400 amp service. 

Since these services are common, house owners would want to know the conduit sizes for wiring them. 

The conduit size will differ based on the ampacity service:

Conduit size for 100 amps 

If your house is smaller with 2-3 electrical appliances and you do not plan to add any extra appliances, 100 amp service would be enough.

Use a 3-wire cable from the meter base to the main disconnect box or panel. 

For this service, you need 4 AWG copper or 2 AWG aluminum or copper-clad wires. 

The minimum conduit size you need will be 1.25 inches to protect these wires. 

You can go for PVC Schedule 40 or 80 gray electric conduits. 

You can also use the slightly larger conduit to maintain the 40% space rule. Use a 1.5 or 2-inch conduit to pull the wires easily. 

Conduit size for 200 amps 

Most people upgrade from 100 to 200 amps. 

It is good for houses that need more than a few electrical appliances for a smooth and speedy life. 

The wire size for 200 amps is 2 AWG copper or 4 AWG aluminum or copper-clad aluminum. 

Suppose you use aluminum triplex cable for single-phase. 

In that case, you need one 4 AWG wire for neutral connection, two 4 AWG wires for hot connections, and one 4 AWG ground wire. 

So, you have 4 wires here. To maintain the 40% space rule, the minimum conduit size for 200 amps has to be around 1.5 to 2 inches.

Experts recommend RMC for overhead services.

For underground services, there are 4 best options besides RMC:

  • IMC 
  • RTRC-XW
  • EMT
  • Rigid Schedule 80 or 40 PVC

You can increase the size to 2.5 inches for easier pulling and enough space for the wires. 

Conduit size for 300 amps 

300 amps are also good for houses with only important electrical appliances. 

Besides, you may also add 2-3 more appliances in the future. 

If you have a 300 amp service, you need 250 kcmil copper wire or 350 kcmil aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wires.

For underground, you need 300 to 500 kcmil wire, based on the wire material. 

If you are running 3 or 4 conductors, a 2 to 2.5-inch conduit will work fine for 300 amps. 

You can upgrade it to 3 inches to keep the wires safe. 

Since the wires will be thicker, a slightly bigger conduit will save the wires from getting exposed. 

You can use a PVC schedule 40 or 80.

Conduit size for 400 amps 

400 amp service is huge and is needed for houses with multiple heavy-duty appliances. 

Besides the appliances, it is installed for houses with a detached location, for instance, a swimming pool with a mini-fridge, outhouse, workshop, garage, or studio.

Since the service is quite high, you will need a 400 kcmil copper wire or a 600 kcmil aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wire. 

Since the wire sizes will be thick, you need a slightly bigger conduit than the other amp services. 

A PVC Schedule 40 conduit of 3 inches would be enough for 400 amp service. 

If you run more than 3 wires, increase the conduit size by 0.5 inches, i.e., 3.5 inches. 

Oversized and undersized conduit considerations 

Electrical services with different ampacity will need different conduit sizes. 

It would be best to use the minimum conduit sizes for proper wiring. 

Some homeowners use oversized conduits so that the wires can go through the conduit, and you can pull them out easily. 

There is no problem using an oversized conduit. 

But, since the conduits can be costly, an oversized conduit will hurt your pocket but keep the wires fine and in good shape. 

If you want to increase the conduit size, increase it only by 0.5 inches. 

If you need a 2-inch conduit, you can use a 2.5-inch conduit for safety. 

On the contrary, you should not use an undersized conduit. 

You will struggle to pass the wires through the conduit. 

Besides, the wires will struggle for adequate space inside, the insulation may chop off, and the wires can get exposed. 

Exposed wires coming in contact with the wrong materials will lead to short circuits and fire hazards. 

So, do not ever choose any undersized conduit to save money. 

Types of conduit for commercial and residential service 

Commercial and residential services sometimes use different types of conduits for their usage methods. 

However, they may also use the same type of conduit. 

It depends on the quality of the conduit and how they are used. 

Commercial services 

For commercial services, a single phase is limited to 200 amps. 

Larger installations need 3-phase. 

To use conduit for commercial applications, here are some options:

  • Intermediate metal conduit:  
  • Rigid metal conduit
  • Flexible metal conduit
  • Liquidtight flexible metal conduit 
  • Rigid PVC conduit 
  • Electrical metal tubing 

Residential services

The minimum service and meter socket for residential uses is 200 amps for underground and 100 amps for overhead services. 

When it comes to using a conduit for residential services, you can use the following options for the conduit type:

  • Rigid metal conduit
  • Electrical metal tubing
  • Electrical non-metal tubing
  • Intermediate metal conduit  

Impact of conduit fill on ampacity rating 

The conduit size differs based on the ampacity rating because the wire sizes differ. 

Thicker wires will need bigger conduits to stay fit inside them. 

According to the NEC, the conduit fill specifications include the following:

  • 1 wire: Maximum fill will be 53% of the space inside the conduit. 
  • 2 wires: Maximum filling will be 31% of the space inside the conduit
  • 3 or more wires: Maximum filling will be 40% of the space inside the conduit

You should maintain these specifications for all conduits and ampacity ratings. 

The electrical service will only work well if you maintain the conduit fill rules by NEC. 

Also read: Can You Run Romex In Conduit?

Final thoughts

Choosing the right conduit size is very important as it helps to keep the wires safe from physical damage. Smaller wires can hurt the wires, damage their insulation, and expose them. So, choose the right size. 

You can go for slightly bigger conduits for multiple or thick wires. You should follow the NEC rule about the conduit fill to keep the wires in good shape. 

100, 200, 300, and 400 amps are the most used services, and that’s why their conduit sizes are mentioned in this article. If not a bigger or right size, choose at least the minimum conduit size recommended for these services.

What size and type of conduit do I need for 320 amps?

320 amps is a new residential service used in place of 400 amps. Since there is not much difference, use the same conduit size recommended for 400 amps, i.e., 3 inches PVC schedule 40.

What size of conduit do I need for 12 AWG wire?

The conduit size is based on the conduit fill. The size of 12 AWG wires will depend on the number of wires and the electrical service you use.

Reference: Electrical Conduit.

Can You Run 320 Amp Service With 2 200 Amp Panels?

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Panels and Breakers,Electrical Wiring,Electricals 

A 320 amp service is a residential service used for houses with multiple electrical devices. Besides, the service is also cheaper than the 400 amp service. But can you run it with 2 200 amps like in the 400 amps? Let’s figure it out. 

You can run a 320 amp service with 2 200 amp panels. It has to be either two separate disconnects or a sub-panel with one main disconnect. Running with a sub-panel is cheaper than using two separate disconnects. 

The 320 amps is a service ideal for residential 400 amp meter sockets. This article will explain the possibility and ways of running a 320 amp service with two separate panels.

What is the difference between 320 amps and 400 amps?

There is not much difference between the two amps. 

A 320 amp meter base is rated for 400 amps non-continuous and 320 amps continuous load. 

320 amp service is continuous, and a residential 400 amp service. 

320 amp service is considered a new residential service, but sometimes a 400 amp service is called 320 amps by following the 80%. 

In some areas, people do not have 320 amps. It is only 400 amps.

A 320 amp meter class is the largest read meter used in North America. 

Once the meter is plugged into the meter socket, the current will pass through the meter. 

The 320 amp is a single phase and contains 2 hot connections.

Both 320 and 400 amps can be used for large residential and small commercial services. 

However, 320 amps are cheaper than 400 amps and thus preferred by most people. 

Also read: Can You Run 400 Amp Service With 2 200 Amp Panels?

Can I run 320 amps with 2 200 amp panels?

Since there is not much difference between the two, you can run a 320 amp service using two panels.

When it comes to running the 320 amp service with two panels, you will have two options:

  • Running 2 200 amp main disconnect panels
  • Running one main 200 amp disconnect with a 200 amp sub panel. 

Let’s discuss them in detail. 

Running a 320 amp service with 2 200 amp main disconnect panels.

Since there is a huge increase in the usage of electrical appliances, people want a higher amp service to power their houses. 

A 320 amp service will be a good continuous load residential service. 

Since 320 amp is a huge and costly service, you may want to run it with 2 200 panels. 

You can run the service with two separate 200 amp disconnect panels to receive 320 to 400 amp service. 

You can add a new main panel if you want a new branch circuit. 

But you must place it in a separate location, like a garage or workshop. 

Both panels will require a power line from the electrical meter to the main panel. 

In the local codes of your region, you need to have a meter base for a 2-lug design for installing 2 main disconnects. 

A 2-lug meter base contains 2 hot and 2 neutral connections. 

The setting will have 2 individual power lines to connect the meter base and meet the electrical codes. 

Using two separate panels will give you 320 to 400 amps. 

It is a great service for houses with separate pools, studios, workshops, rental houses, etc. 

Though you can run a 320 amp with 2 main 200 amp disconnects, the cost will be huge. 

Disconnect panels are more expensive than the sub panels. 

Due to this, a maximum of experts recommend running one sub-panel with the main panel instead of 2 disconnects. 

Due to the high cost, receiving approval for such settings also becomes important. 

Running a 320 amp service with one main panel and one sub-panel

Since running a 320 amp with 2 200 amp main disconnect is expensive, adding a sub panel with a main 200 amp panel is another option for running a 320 amp service.

If you own a 200 amp main panel, install a 200 amp sub panel to run 320 amp continuous service. 

Here, the cost charges will be much less than the 2 disconnect panels.

Generally, a sub-panel is installed when the main panel cannot handle the power used by the house. 

Many house owners install sub-panels instead of upgrading their main service to a higher one. 

It allows them to run a higher service with 2 panels without expensive charges. 

To install a subpanel, one must have a main breaker inside the main service panel. 

It will safely disconnect the electrical service from the other branch circuit of the house. 

The sub-panel must be close to the main entrance panel or in a detached area, like a garage or workshop. 

The sub-panel will feed from the main service panel. 

The main disconnect will protect both the main and sub-panels.

Before installing a sub panel with a main disconnect, consider checking it with your area’s local codes. 

Do not get worried just because it is a 200 amp sub panel. 

A single 200 amp subpanel can feed about 3 more subpanels.

What factors should you consider while running 320 amps with 2 200 amp panels?

Whether you connect a main panel with a subpanel or two separate panels to run a 320 amp service, consider a few factors while running the service with such a setting. 

What kind of power supply is required?

320 amp service is quite a huge service. 

You will need a larger power supply to handle 320 amps with 2 200 amp panels. 

For one 200 amp, you need a generator with 15 to 20kw. 

It should produce around 15k to 20k watts of power. 

For handling two 200 amp panels, you need a power supply double the size. 

How to protect the circuit for such huge services?

It would be best to buy extensive and strong circuit breakers to run a 320 amp service with 2 200 amp services.

The breakers or fuses should be able to handle such high services and prevent damage from overloading and short circuits. 

What size of wire is required?

For running a 320 amp service with 2 200 amp panels, you need thick wires to handle the current flow of the two panels. 

#2/0 AWG copper wires will be the best choice if you use copper wires. 

You can also go for #4/0 AWG aluminum or copper-clad wires, but since you will run 2 200 amp panels, it is best to use copper wires. 

Use #6 AWG copper wires for the grounding connection. 

320 amp is quite a huge service. It will be fine if you choose one 1-0 oversized wire. 

The thicker the wire, the better the current flow and the lesser the chances of overheating. 

Will there be a voltage drop?

Generally, there is always a voltage drop of 3% or 5%. 

While running a 320 amp with two 200 amp panels, a voltage drop will occur, especially if the second panel is attached to a separate location like a garage or workshop. 

Big distances and increased current flow can lead to greater voltage drop.

High voltage drops can cause issues in the performance of the appliances and power quality. 

To keep the voltage drop from increasing, ensure the distance between the panels is not high and the cables are thicker. 

How to ensure the current load remains balanced?

To run 320 amps, you will have two 200 amp breakers on every side of the panel frame. 

Each panel should be fed with power from one leg of the 240V service given by the service panel. 

You must check that the electrical service draws equal power from each 200 amp panel. 

Otherwise, one panel will get overloaded while the other will remain unused. Overloading can damage the panel and cause short circuits. 

For an observation of the load balance, ask your local electrician to give you a regular calculation of the balance. 

If there is any problem, ask the professional to check and fix the problem. 

Permits and inspections for running 320 amps with 2 200 amp panels

Since 320 amps is a huge service and you will be running it with two 200 amp panels, you should need permission for such a setting. 

It is common for house owners to install a subpanel with the main panel. 

The process is easy and cheaper than installing two main panels. 

Connecting two main 200 amp disconnects is very costly. 

Due to this, local electrical codes in some areas do not recommend using it. If you do, you may face issues in receiving permission from the region’s building department and local electrical codes. 

The local contractors may not permit you to run two main disconnects in one structure. 

Even if you receive permission, the inspection team from the building department will inspect frequently and ask for high expenses for installation.

However, the National Electric Code has permission for both settings. 

But, if local codes are different, you won’t be allowed to follow the NEC code. 

If you do such a setting, get permission from your local code before you start the project.

What safety measures should be taken?

Running 320 amps with 2 200 amp panels will require proper safety measures to avoid overloading and short circuits. 

All the above factors discussed are the factors you must consider. 

They are safety measures you should take to run a 320 amp with 2 200 amp panels.

Some major safety measures include:

  • Using thicker wires
  • Maintaining short distances between two panels.
  • Making sure that power is equally drawn from both panels, especially in the case of the two disconnect panels.
  • Take permission from the building department and local codes for such settings. They can suggest which setting is applicable in your area.

Final thoughts

You can run 320 amps with 2 200 amp panels. 

You can run it by installing 2 separate disconnects or 1 sub-panel with one main panel. 

Contractors recommend running one 200 amp panel with one 200 amp main panel. It is cheaper than running two 200 amp main panels. 

Due to the higher cost, contractors do not suggest running two disconnects in one structure. 

However, you can run both if you get permission for it. 

Since 320 amps is a huge service, you should follow certain factors and safety measures to run the panels safely. 

Use thicker copper wires, reduce the distance, ensure that both panels’ loads are balanced, and use robust breakers to protect the electrical service.

What will using two main 200 amp disconnects for 320 amps cost?

The installation cost will be around $1,300 to $1,500, including the labor cost, breakers, wire price, and wiring per foot lineage.

Do I need a 320 amp?

If you have multiple electrical appliances with a detached structure, you will need a 320 amp service to support the appliances.

Data Source: National Electrical Code, NEC Wire Table,  Electrical wiring, Home wiring.

Can You Run 400 Amp Service With 2 200 Amp Panels?

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Panels and Breakers,Electrical Wiring,Electricals 

Nowadays, people install higher amp services due to the increased use of electrical devices. We see 400 amp services more in residential properties across the US. Many house owners wonder if they can use 2 200 amp panels for a 400 amp service. 

The NEC does not deny using two 200 amp panels to run a 400 amp service. It depends on whether you can have a sub-panel or include two separate panels. But the maximum load on each panel should be below 200 amps. You can contact your local inspection department for the local codes. 

However, some experts don’t recommend two different panels due to high installation costs. This guide will explain both installation processes, their pros and cons, the cost, and other considerations. 

Is it possible to run a 400 amp service with 2 200 amp panels?

In today’s world, there has been an increase in the usage of electrical appliances. 

So, people have started upgrading their service to higher amps, like 200 or 400 amps.

You can run a 400 amp service with 2 200 amp main disconnect panels. 

If you add a new branch circuit in your house, adding a new main panel will be an option. 

The case may be building a garage or workshop. 

Each panel will need a power line from the electrical meter base to the main panel. 

Sometimes, the local code will need the meter base to have a 2-lug design for such installation. 

A 2-lug meter base will have two neutral and two hot connections on the service side. 

Such a setting will have 2 separate power lines to attach to the meter base and comply with the electrical codes.

Pros and cons of installing two 200 amp main disconnect panels

Installing a main disconnect on each panel will be logical and more efficient, especially if the second main panel is in a separate location. 

Large houses will have a separate pool area, workshop, art studio, or other equipment structure. 

Sometimes, house owners will have an outhouse or a rental unit adjacent to their house. 

Installing two main 200 amp main panels will cost huge. 

Disconnect panels are more expensive than sub-panels. 

So, running two of them will result in a very high cost. 

Sometimes, you will even receive problems with your region’s building department and electrical codes. 

The local electrical codes will not permit you to run two main panels in one structure. 

Instead, the contractors will recommend you have only one main disconnect panel to protect your house’s electrical circuits. 

Even if the electrical codes approve your request, the building inspection department will demand high expenses for installing two main disconnect panels.  

Is there any alternative?

Since installing two main disconnect panels is quite expensive, you can use a 200 amp sub-panel if you have a 200 amp panel. 

A 200 amp sub-panel with a 200 amp disconnect also means running a 400 amp with 2 200 amp panels. 

Besides, the installation charge will be less for this option.

Installing two panels is very expensive. So, some contractors or builders recommend installing one panel. 

If you have a 200 amp main panel, you can install a 200 amp sub-panel instead of two main disconnect panels. 

Generally, we install a sub-panel when the main panel can no longer handle the circuit breakers.  

Numerous people install a sub-panel for safety purposes in places where they can conveniently access the main panel, for instance, upstairs or in a woodshop. 

The main disconnect switch is the main difference between the main service panel and the sub-panel. 

The National Electric Code, or NEC, claims every electrical installation must have a main disconnect switch or breaker. 

The main breaker is located inside the main service panel. 

It allows the electrical service to quickly and safely get disconnected from the other branch circuits in the house. 

The sub-panel will be close to the main entrance panel or places like a detached garage, workshop, or other utility areas. 

The power feeding the sub-panel will be taken from the main service panel so that the main disconnect breaker can protect both the main and the sub-panels. 

Considerations while installing a sub-panel 

While installing a 400 amp main panel with a sub-panel, you need to install a heavy and thick wire between the main and sub-panels. 

In some circumstances, you might use the same wire size in bringing the electrical service from the meter to the main service. 

Based on the installation, it will add extra cost for both the items and labor costs. 

You can install a sub-panel in a different location or separate location of your house, like a detached garage, workshop, or second-story rental building. 

The cost of using copper wires will be huge when the branch circuit distances are very long. 

Before you decide to install a 200 amp main panel and a 200 amp sub-panel, check with the local electrical codes of your region. 

If you are worried because it is only a 200 amp sub-panel, know that a 200 amp sub-panel can feed around 3 sub-panels. 

Some local codes will have extra needs or do not permit this installation where 400 amp is used in a residential area. 

Connecting process of the sub-panel

The first 200 amp panel should be at the main breaker box and load center. 

The second panel should feed the house, and you need to connect the sub-panel to the main panel. 

Take a 3-wire feeder cable with 3 insulated conductors and a bare copper conductor. 

Run the cable to the sub-panel from the main panel with the help of an electrician. 

The cable should be of the correct size to meet the requirements of the sub-panel amp. 

Get a #2/0 AWG copper wire or #4/0 AWG aluminum or copper-clad wire. 

For underground services, get 1.5 inches of PVC conduit Schedule 40 or 80. 

You may also need a 250 kcmil copper wire, based on the voltage. 

The feeder cable should have two hot wires, one neutral wire, and a bare ground wire. 

Connect the wires to the lugs on each hot bus bar in the sub-panel. The lugs act as a 400 amp meter base with lugs. 

Before connecting the neutral and ground wires to their bus bars in the main panel, attach them to the circuit breaker and link the hot feeder wires. 

Connect the main service panel feeder breaker to the open double slot. 

Both panels will need a ground wire. 

According to the electric code, a zero copper ground is stranded, shielded, and legit. 

Bring the 1-0 oversized wire for the 400 amp service into one 200 amp panel. 

Take the ground wire and bring it to the other panel.

If you hesitate to connect the panels, hire a professional to wire the sub-panels. 

Cost considerations 

The cost of installation is one of the major factors. 

Based on the installation cost, many people must decide between installing two 200 amp main disconnect panels or a 200 amp sub-panel. 

Besides, a lot of factors will affect the cost of the installation.

For example, the price of copper wires, breakers, and panel assemblies keeps fluctuating. 

The labor cost will differ based on the living region. It is extremely high in urban areas. 

Here is a small guide list about the cost of the installation:

400 amp service panel200 amp main disconnect panel with a sub-panelTwo 200 amp main disconnect panels
Service panel price $1,300$300$450
Circuit breaker price (16 branch circuits)$96$96$96
Branch circuit wiring (Avg. residential new construction runs)$9.73 per foot$9.73 per foot$9.73 per foot
Service line price (Underground 400 amp 240V service line)$20 to $40 per linear foot$20 to $40 per linear foot$20 to $40 per linear foot

The above costs are average and will differ based on your area. 

If you live in an urban area, the price may be higher than these mentioned prices. 

Sometimes, there will be additional costs with these expenses. 

Ask your local utility companies for the price of both installations. 

What does the National Electric say about these installations?

According to the National Electric Code, you can use 2 200 amp main disconnect panels to run a 400 amp service. 

You can also use a 200 amp sub-panel with a 200 amp service if 2 disconnect panels are costly. 

The NEC has permission for both procedures. 

 The NEC indirectly talks about the installation of the 400 amp service. 

There are no direct recommendations about dealing with the 400 amp service’s panel installations. 

The NEC only discussed the equipment requirements, installation prices, and wire types and sizes for the 400 amp service. 

Other considerations to consider

When you think of running a 400 amp, consider a few factors about how to run the service. 

If you have new constructions, your decision will undergo a few plan reviews by the building inspection department. 

The department will also suggest factors like the local additional regulations and requirements. 

Maximum localities need electrical installations and service entry points by licensed and expert electricians. 

Suppose you install it yourself with a house owner’s permission. 

In that case, you should expect the electrical inspectors to be frequent visitors to your project site for examination. 

Ensure the balance load of the electrical system. 

The electrical service panels will have 2 circuit breaker rows on every side of the panel frame. 

Each breaker set is fed with power from one leg of the 240V service provided by the service panel. 

The load balancing allows the electrical system to draw equal power from each side of the service panel. 

Some circuits will overload if one-panel side draws more power than the other. 

As a result, the circuits will overheat, and the electrical components of your house’s electrical system and other appliances will fail to operate. 

The electrical code department of some areas will ask for a load calculation of the electrical system installed inside your house. 

There are many ways to perform a load calculation balance. 

Ask your electrician to help you and give you a detailed and acceptable report about the balanced load calculation. 

Sub-panel vs. two main disconnect panels

The possibility of running a 400 amp with 2 200 amp panels or not will be better understood with the help of the local electric code. 

Some local electrical codes say that any sub-panel with a disconnect switch installed on the electrical lines will feed the panel. 

So, combining a main disconnect switch and a sub-panel is similar to installing a service panel with a disconnect panel instead of the sub-panel. 

The major factor is the cost. 

Installing a disconnect panel with the main service will cost more than installing a sub-panel with the main service. 

The costs are often more due to additional services and living areas. 

So, which one will be the best?

Though there is no problem in running a 400 amp with 2 200 amp panels, it is best to install a 200 amp sub-panel instead of having 2 panels. 

Before you decide on having 2 200 amp panels for running a 400 amp service, consider the following guidelines:

  • Check the local codes and ensure that your plan meets the codes to prevent problems later. 
  • Contact your local electrical contractor for advice and selection between the 2 main panels or a sub-panel. 
  • If you consider installing the panels, have permission and consult your electrical inspector for proper advice.

Since both options are workable, it is very difficult to recommend anyone. It completely depends upon the individual’s choice. 

Situations, codes, and needs vary. 

Final thoughts

You can run a 400 amp service with two 200 amp panels. You can either use 2 200 amp main disconnect panels or a 200 amp sub-panel with a main panel. 

Most experts recommend installing a 200 amp sub-panel instead of having 2 main disconnect panels because a sub-panel is cheaper. It is completely your choice to make. 

Before deciding on any option, ensure that your local electrical codes allow your chosen installation process. Always consult a licensed electrician for the installation.

How much wattage can a 400 amp service handle?

A 400 amp service can handle 20,000 watts at the most.

Can I install two panels next to each other?

You should maintain at least 30 to 36 inches between the two panels to adjust the panel.

Data Source: National Electrical Code, NEC Wire Table,  Electrical wiring, Home wiring.

12 Reasons Your Power Keeps Going On And Off

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Basics,Electricals 

Power going on and off is common. However, it is concerning if the power goes out and comes right back on or power goes out frequently without any proper explanation. So, what does it mean when the power keeps going on and off?

The typical reasons your power keeps going on and off are overloaded circuits and weather-related issues. The problem will resolve once you decrease the load and the weather becomes normal. Other reasons include faulty panels, loose connections, power surges and theft, and outdated systems.

There is nothing to panic about if your power constantly goes on and off. Keep reading this article until the end to understand the common reasons and how to solve them immediately.  

1. Overloaded circuits

Adding too many appliances in one circuit can overload it, especially if the current load exceeds the circuit’s load limit. 

As a result, your breaker will trip constantly, and power will go away.

The power returns after some time but will turn off again if you do not reduce the circuit load. 

Sometimes, it will repeatedly occur, especially if your house is old with a single circuit. 

A circuit breaker generally lasts 35 years but will reduce to 25 due to regular wear and tear. 

However, power going off due to a tripped breaker is a good sign because it won’t lead to any dangerous issues. 

When your breaker has tripped due to overloading, reduce the load and reset your breaker. 

You can identify the tripping by looking at the breaker. The switch will flip to the OFF position or stay in the middle. 

If the switch has flipped OFF, turn it ON. 

If the switch is in the center, flip it to OFF, wait for some time, and then turn it ON. 

Some breakers have a RESET button, like GFCI. Press the RESET button for a few seconds and release it to turn it on.

If it still trips, install a new breaker with a higher amperage load. 

2. Loose or damaged wire connections 

Loose or damaged wire connections can turn the power on and off frequently. 

Loose or damaged wire connections will cause short circuits, make the wires touch the wrong materials, and start a fire. 

A short circuit happens when the current flows elsewhere instead of through the return path. 

It can further trip your breaker and lead to power outages. 

Electrical devices, like refrigerators, heaters, and fans, can cause a short circuit. It is a dangerous issue and should be solved immediately. 

In a short circuit, your electricity flow gets interrupted, and your house loses power.

To fix it, you need to tighten the loose wires and replace the frayed wires. However, you should hire an electrician to fix the problem. 

3. Faulty electrical panels 

Like other electrical products, the electrical panels and breakers will have issues. 

These electrical panels and breakers are vulnerable to moisture. 

If water gets into the panel or breaker accidentally, your house power will start going on and off frequently. 

The electrical service panels and breakers will need a replacement fuse. 

The fuses are easy to install, but a professional electrician should do it. 

If you ever notice that your house power is going on and off, you should contact your electrician to get your panel checked. 

4. Bad breaker switch

A bad or broken breaker switch will negatively affect your house’s power, even if the breaker is fine. 

Bad breaker switches will lead to power fluctuations for that part of the house it controls. It can also affect the entire house if it is very old. 

However, the power returns after a few seconds if only 1-2 breaker switches are bad. 

Replace the breaker switch to fix the problem.

The cost of the switch will be around $45 to $60. 

If you have an old breaker with multiple damaged switches, replace the entire circuit instead of fixing the switches.

5. Weather-related issues 

Weather is a major reason behind power going on and off frequently for short periods. 

Bad weather conditions with storms, thunder, and heavy rains will badly affect the house’s electrical grid and breaker and result in frequent power outages.

Strong winds, heavy rains, and fallen trees will affect the power lines connected to your house and cause a brief or long power outage. 

If the condition worsens, a house will not have power for days until the power lines get fixed. 

Some storms are so fierce that they damage your house’s circuit breaker. 

You have to replace such breaker panels once the weather normalizes. 

The top 4 natural phenomena where power outages are normal are:

  • Hurricanes 
  • Tropical storms
  • Earthquakes 
  • Tornadoes

These problems get fixed once the electrician changes the wires. 

6. Power company issues 

If the power company has some problem with their equipment or transmission lines, your house will have frequent power loss. 

The problem will be solved after the company has fixed the issue.

If you visit a power station, you will find multiple components that have aged or been damaged due to daily wear and tear. 

As a result, the power will go on and off until the equipment changes. 

Transmission failure occurs when the step-up transformers fail, or the power lines break down or are damaged. 

As a result, power will struggle to reach the distribution system, thus making the power go on and off frequently. 

Regular maintenance on these grounds will solve the power issue.

7. Outdated electrical systems 

In recent times, there has been an increased use of electrical appliances. 

You will need modern electrical systems with high amperage to handle the demand for electrical appliances. 

If your house’s electrical system is old and outdated, it won’t be able to handle modern electrical devices. 

As a result, the power will go on and off multiple times. 

You should upgrade your electrical system with a higher amperage to avoid frequent power outages. 

8. Overheating equipment 

Overheating in electrical devices like refrigerators, air conditioners, or washing machines can lead to power fluctuations. 

Overheating can occur due to running the appliances for longer periods without breaking or some component inside the appliance creating the issue. 

Faulty or exposed wiring can also lead to overheating. 

When you see such wires, there will be a notable risk of fire hazards. 

Maximum overheating issues are caused due to such wiring. 

It can also start a wire, especially when the exposed wires come in contact with the wrong materials.

Avoid using an outlet connected to faulty or exposed wires. 

You should hire a professional to investigate the matter and fix the problem. 

9. Power surge

A sudden spike in the voltage causes a power surge, which travels through the electrical distribution system into your house’s power system. 

It mainly occurs during a lightning strike or thunder.

As a result, your house’s power will keep going on and off until the surge is fixed. 

Even after re-establishing the electricity after the power outage, power surges will continue. 

Use a surge protector if you live in areas with frequent power fluctuations. 

Use surge protectors to protect your appliances from the damage caused by power surges and prevent power fluctuations. 

The surge protector will ensure only a certain amount of electricity reaches your house equipment and block the excess electricity to keep your equipment safe. 

The only disadvantage of the product is its cost, due to which putting it in each of your outlets will be a big investment. 

If you have a small budget, you can use the protector only for some specific appliances. 

10. Power Theft 

Using electrical current without permission by tapping on a power line will make your house’s power fluctuate. 

In simple words, it is stealing power. 

But how is it done? Here are some power theft types:

  • Tampering with the meters and seals will make the mechanical disk from working.
  • Bypassing the meter by illegally connecting it to the fuse prevents the rotating disk from working and prevents the recording of energy consumption. 
  • Tapping the wires and cables illegally to the bare or underground cables can help steal power. 
  • Disconnecting or breaking the circuit wires from the circuit terminal block and inserting a triple breaker in the circuit will lead to power theft.
  • There will be illegal terminal tapping of the overhead lines on the transformer’s low-voltage side. The theft will happen either by fish poles or by flying connections.
  • Extending the service connection for purposes other than the main purpose leads to theft. For example, if you use a domestic connection for commercial, construction, or industrial purposes, it is a power theft.

You can prevent it by the following steps:

  • Smart meters can prevent electrical theft, detect tampering with electrical equipment with the help of in-built tamper detection, and send notifications during a tamper attempt. It will record the electricity consumption at short intervals and communicate it back to the utility. 
  • Utility companies have included rewards for customers complaining about electricity theft. 
  • Several regions have included technical interventions by enabling the computerization of the infrastructure distribution, feeder metering, and feeder segregation.

11. Animal-related issues 

Sometimes, the animals will reach near the wires and chew them up, leading to frequent power outages. 

When the animal cheats the wire, you will face power constantly going on and off. 

If it cheats the whole wire, you have to replace it. 

You need to call an electrician to replace the wires. 

Even if your wires have insulation, the rodents’ teeth are sharp enough to chew the insulation. 

Besides the electrician, you should also call an exterminator to get rid of the pest or keep them away from the wires. 

12. Maintenance and repair 

The electrical equipment and utilities will require routine maintenance and repairs. 

During the maintenance and repair time, you will face power fluctuations. 

Most of the time, the utility companies in your area will inform you about the routine maintenance and repair time. 

Though such blackouts in the house are unpleasant, keeping everything in good shape is mandatory.

To prevent customers from having issues due to power fluctuations, utility companies try to perform maintenance when power outages have the most negligible impact on them.  

How can you Identify the source of power fluctuations?

By now, you have understood that power fluctuations occur due to different reasons. But how do you pinpoint the actual source? 

Here are some ways of finding out the source of the power fluctuation:

  • Power fluctuating in the middle of the storm means you cannot do anything until the weather becomes normal. 
  • If the power fluctuates throughout the house regularly, call an electrician, as it can be an outdoor issue, wire issue, or circuit problem. 
  • If the power goes on and off in a single room, check the breaker of that room. It could be due to overloading. Reducing the load can solve the problem. 
  • If power is fluctuating in some specific rooms, check the connection from the breaker to the room. You should call an expert to check the matter if you do not find anything. 
  • Check the outlet if the power fluctuation is in a specific outlet. The reason could be worn-out strip surge protectors, which require replacement. 

What is the cost of hiring an electrician?

In most cases, you will require an electrician’s help to fix the power outage issue. But fortunately, the solution is easy. 

Due to the easy fixes, the price of hiring an electrician drops significantly. 

An electrician will charge between $100 and $550 to fix the power fluctuation problem. It includes switch repairs, breakers, and wire repairs. 

For advanced fixation like circuit upgradation or replacement, you need to pay around $1,000. 

House owners with insurance 

It depends on the repair type and emergency. 

The insurance company will not cover the price if you face regular wear and tear issues. It will be considered a part of the house’s maintenance. 

You can file a claim if the wire issues are due to natural calamities. 

Call the insurance policy company if you need to convince them that the power outage results from natural calamity or peril. 

Final thoughts 

If you have reached the end of the article, you now know the reasons behind power fluctuations. In most conditions, fixing the cause will be out of your control. 

However, even if you cannot fix it, you can at least identify the source of the power outage. Call an electrician to look into the matter whenever you find out the problem is serious behind the power fluctuations. 

If you are dealing with them yourself, handle the issues carefully. Shut down the main power while working, wear protective gear, and avoid wet or metal materials.

What should I do if my house’s power goes out?

You can run a generator or inverter. Avoid using gas products inside your house during a power outage. Also, keep yourself from frequently opening the refrigerator or freezer during a power outage. It can let the cold air out and spoil your food.

How long does power normally take to come back?

If the problem is short, like heavy rain and lightning, it can take a few minutes to a few hours. If the problem is serious, like fallen trees and torn-out wires due to heavy rains and lightning, it might take 7 days to come back.

Why Are My Fluorescent Lights Dim? (+Fix)

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Testing and Troubleshooting,Electricals 

If you are using fluorescent lights for a long time, it is common to notice them go dim in the long run. And you are at the right place if you are looking to fix your dim fluorescent lights. 

When your fluorescent lights are dim, check if there is an adequate power supply to your fluorescent lights. If there are issues in the power supply, fix them with the help of professionals. Another significant cause of dim lights is bad ballast. Replace it with a new one.

In this article, you will understand common causes and steps to fix dim fluorescent lights. So, keep reading.

How do fluorescent lights work? 

Fluorescent lights are energy efficient and last a long time.

Fluorescent lights contain low-pressure mercury discharge tubes.

These lamps use a component called fluorescence to ignite lights. 

The mercury gas ignites the electricity passed to the fluorescent lights, and the phosphorus coating is developed inside the tube to produce light. 

4 ways to fix dim fluorescent lights

Fluorescent lights are a cost-effective and energy-saving option.

If your fluorescent lights are dim, they will reduce the elegance of your home. 

Here are common causes and steps to fix your dim fluorescent lights. 

1. Check the power supply to your fluorescent light

ballast wiring

If your fluorescent lights are dim, one of the significant causes would be an inadequate power supply to your fluorescent lights. 

You must check the power supply to fix this issue. 

Follow the steps below to check the voltage supply to your fluorescent lights:

  • Disconnect the power supply to the circuit that provides power to your fluorescent lights.
  • Next, you need to detach the bulb from the fixture. To do so, rotate the bulb anticlockwise in the fixture to remove it completely. You can see that this bulb is fixed in place with the help of tombstones to make it easy for the electricity to transfer to the bulb when it is powered on.
  • To check if the power supply is adequate, you must check the ballast. Detach the cover from the ballast by unthreading two screws securing it. You can also see blue and white wires connected with the ballast to attach it to the fixture.
  • Now, it’s time to check the ballast with the multimeter. Turn on the multimeter, and take the first probe to the white wire and the second one with the colored wire to check the reading in the multimeter. The multimeter must show continuity if there is an adequate power supply. If it does show any continuity, your fluorescent light is not getting an adequate power supply. You must check the power source and also replace the ballast.
  • You must also check the working status of the tombstone wires connecting the fixture. Unthread the screws securing the tombstone and access the wires. Take the first probe of the multimeter to touch the power wire and the second to the neutral wire. If there is no continuity, there are issues with the tombstone wires, which you should replace. 

If all these are not issues in your case, check the power source and if it supplies enough power to your fluorescent lights.

If there is no adequate power supply, seek help from professionals to regulate the smooth power supply to your fluorescent lights. 

2. Replace the faulty bulb inside your fluorescent light

If you have checked your power supply and still your fluorescent lights are dim, you must check the working condition of the bulb.

If the bulb is faulty, your fluorescent light may not glow brightly. 

In such a case, you must replace the bulb. 

Follow the steps below to check the working condition of the bulb in your fluorescent tube:

  • The first step in checking the working condition of the bulb is to inspect if there is darkness at the side of the bulbs. If you are using the bulb for the longest time, there will be darkness at the side of the bulb. It indicates that the bulb is dying and you must replace it.
  • The next step is to check the pin at the side of the bulbs. If the pins are bent, you can use pliers to straighten them. If the pins are broken, you must replace the entire bulb.
  • You can also check the continuity of the bulb with the multimeter. Touch the probe of the multimeter to the pins in the bulb. If there is no continuity shown, you must replace the bulb.
  • Check the starters of the bulb. Starters are small cylindrical parts that can only be found in older fluorescent tubes. These starters help to stimulate the gas to light the bulb. If you are using an older fluorescent bulb, replace the starters. 

3. Check the working condition of the ballast

The ballast is an important component of fluorescent lights that is located inside it to supply enough voltage to ignite the light. 

It also regulates the voltage supply to the fluorescent light.

If the ballast is faulty, you must replace it with a new one. 

Causes of ballast failure in fluorescent lights: 

Ballast in fluorescent lights fails due to the heat and excess moisture in the environment.

It also became faulty due to the loose wiring in the fluorescent bulb. 

Here are some of the signs of faulty ballast: 

If you observe these common signs mentioned below in your fluorescent lights, it indicates the faulty ballast. 

Low light: The first indication of a faulty ballast is when your fluorescent lights are dim after regulating the adequate power supply and replacing the bulb if it is faulty. 

In such a scenario, you must check the working condition of the ballast and replace it as soon as possible.

It is impossible to repair the ballast, and the only solution is to replace it completely. 

Constant flickering: If the fluorescent lights are flickering continuously, it may annoy the housemates, which is also a sign of faulty ballast.

As soon as you observe the flickering in your fluorescent light, check the ballast for replacement. 

Buzzing sound from the lights: If there is unusual noise from your fluorescent lights, it indicates faults, including faulty ballast. 

Delay in blowing of light: The ballast provides the required voltage to blow the fluorescent light.

It may be due to the faulty ballast if you have switched on the light and it takes time to blow. 

You must check these signs with the multimeter if you notice them in your fluorescent light. 

Follow the steps below to check the ballast with the multimeter:

  • Turn off the power circuit breaker connected to the fluorescent light you are working on.
  • Next, you need to detach the fluorescent light from the fixture. Rotate the light anticlockwise or slide it out based on the model of your fluorescent light.
  • Now, you need to detach the ballast from the fluorescent lights. The method of removing the ballast differs based on the model of your lights. If your lights are circular-shaped, you can easily unplug them from the light by twisting them in the left direction. If you have a U-shaped fluorescent bulb, you need to remove the bulb from the spring to detach the ballast from the holder.
  • If the ballast in your fluorescent lights is covered with the outer covering, remove it. Inspect the ballast for any sign of burning, leaking, or swelling. If you observe any of these signs, you must replace the ballast even before testing with the multimeter. If not, you can proceed to the next step.
  • Set the multimeter to the ohm. Touch the first probe of the multimeter to the white wire and the second one with the red or blue wires attached to the ballast.
  • If no continuity is shown in the multimeter, It indicates the faulty ballast. In such a case, you must replace the faulty ballast with the new one. 

If you find the reason for the dim fluorescent lights is faulty ballast, you must replace them immediately to enjoy the bright light. 

Before starting the replacement process, purchase the right ballast to suit your fluorescent light.

In such a scenario, you can consult a professional to choose the right ballast with the identical wire configuration and voltage capacity.

  • Begin by disconnecting the power supply to the lights you will work on.
  • If your fluorescent light fixtures are covered with a plastic outer covering, detach them from the fixture. Release it from the locking tabs using your hands. Gently slide it to the right to remove it from the fixture.
  • Next, detach the fluorescent bulbs from the fixture. Rotate the bulb in the counterclockwise direction to remove it from the fixture. While removing the bulbs, inspect the electrodes attached to each side of the tube; if they are faulty, replace the electrodes or the bulbs.
  • Now, remove the cover plate securing the ballast in place. The locking tabs at each side usually secure this cover. Using pliers, release the locking tabs to slide down the cover from the fixture.
  • Now, you can access the ballast and its wire connections. Before proceeding, using a voltage tester, ensure no current flow to the ballast. You can see power wires in white and black color. In addition to these wires, more wires will be connected to the ballast. Before removing the ballast, consider taking photos of the wire configurations to make it easy for you when you replace the new ballast.
  • Disconnect all the wire connections from the ballast.
  • Detach the ballast from the fixture by removing the screws securing the ballast to the fixture.
  • Replace the new ballast and secure it with the screws you removed. Reconnect all the wires by referring to the digital photo you took.
  • Reinstall the ballast cover and secure it with the screws.
  • Reinstall the bulb and the plastic cover to the fixture of the fluorescent lights.
  • Turn on the circuit breaker to ensure the power supply to the bulb. And check if your fluorescent lights are bright. 

4. Replace your fluorescent light

The average lifetime of fluorescent bulbs is about 20,000 hours.

If your fluorescent lights are older, it would be difficult to fix the issues.

In such a case, you must replace the entire fluorescent light.

How can you tell if the ballast is bad?

If your fluorescent lights are flickering continuously and if the light is dim, most probably the ballast went bad, and you have to replace it.

A bad ballast will also cause unusual buzzing sounds when the light is switched on.

Other common issues with fluorescent lights

Apart from the dim lights, other common issues with fluorescent lights are:

Fluorescent lights are not starting.

If your fluorescent lights are not starting, it may be due to the faulty starter switch, choke, or loose holder. 

You can fix these issues by replacing the faulty parts. 

Or you can try rotating the fluorescent light to 90° and inspect the wire connection and holders. 

Fluorescent lights switch on and off automatically.

If your fluorescent lights switch on and off immediately, it may be due to the low voltage supply, wrong electric circuit connections, and faulty fluorescent tubes.

You can fix this issue by working on regulating the smooth circuit connections. 

Replace the faulty fluorescent tubes to bring your lights to working condition.

The end of the fluorescent tube keeps blowing.

These issues occur when there are faults in the starter switch. 

Inspect the starter switch to check if it is short-circuited. 

In such a case, replace the starter switch with the new one.

The appearance of dark streaks along the light

If you notice dark streaks along your fluorescent streaks, it is due to the mercury globules. 

To fix this issue, turn your fluorescent light to 180°. Doing this will solve the issue most of the time.

Loud noise

If there is unusual noise in your fluorescent lights, it is because of two causes.

One is bad ballast.

If that’s causing the issue, you can solve it by replacing the faulty ballast. 

Another important cause is excessively vibrating iron core sheets in the choke. 

You can fix this issue by tightening the iron core of the sheets or replacing the entire choke of your fluorescent light.

Final thoughts

Fluorescent lights are the most commonly used in both households and office spaces. And it is common for fluorescent lights to go dim for several reasons. 

One of the important causes would be power supply issues. Check if there is an adequate power supply to the lights. Consider seeking help from professionals to solve the power supply issues. 

Another common cause of dim fluorescent lights is bad ballast. Ballast supplies the required voltage for the fluorescent light to blow. If they are faulty, replace them with new ballast. Follow the steps mentioned in the article to fix the dim fluorescent lights.

Do fluorescent bulbs lose brightness?

In the case of using fluorescent lights for more than 8 years, their brightness will reduce by up to 30 percent.

How long do fluorescent ballasts last?

A fluorescent ballast can last up to 10 years. However, it depends on the brand and type of ballast. 

What happens if you don’t replace the ballast?

If you don’t replace the faulty ballast, the fluorescent light will become unstable without the right voltage supply. It will eventually stop working.

Reference: Fluorescent lamp Wikipedia, Compact fluorescent lamp Wikipedia.

How To Repair Mouse Chewed Wires?

Written by Arthur Smith in Electrical Wiring,Electricals 

Chewing wires and cables is mice’s favorite activity. But chewed wires can have deadly effects on the house’s electrical systems. So, how do you fix chewed wires? That’s what we will share today. 

To fix a chewed wire, separate the wires from the damaged area, cut the chewed part, slip a small shrink tube over each wire and large tubes over both, solder the wires, and shrink the small tube and then the large one. Protect the wires and use deterrents for prevention.

This step is common and simple. The step depends on where the wire is damaged. Follow this article till the end to know how to fix a chewed wire and how to prevent it from happening further. 

Understanding the damage caused by mice chewing on wires

Rodents like mice, rats, and squirrels have enduring teeth growth for which chewing things is their pastime. 

Since the household wires are easy to access, the rodents will chew them and even build nests close to them for faster access. 

Experts claim that the offspring and single pair of rats can only turn to half-billion rates over 3 years. Mice are also fast breeders. 

One or two of them may not worry you, but one can become a hundred quickly. 

When these rodents chew your household wires and expose them inside the insulation, it can cause serious accidents. 

The bare wires and other wires bundled together will become extremely hot after exposure. 

The heat will inflame the insulation and wood framing. 

Rodents chew the protective cover around the ground wire, power-supply wires, and electrical cords attached to the electrical appliances. 

It can disrupt the electrical current and increase the risk of short circuits, electrocution, and fire hazards whenever you turn on the appliance. 

When the rodent chews wires and damages the insulation, there is a high chance of neutral touching the live wire and causing a short circuit. 

A spark from the exposed wires is more dangerous than everything else as it can start a fire at any moment. 

Loose wiring in the attic, crawlspaces, and walls are common areas where rodents can reach and chew the wires. 

Squirrels and mice nesting near the junction box and loose wire connections cause excessive heating, short circuits, tripped breakers, and overloading.

Signs of mice infestation 

Bite marks on the insulation and exposed live wires signify mice infestation.

It is difficult to spot rodent damage in the wires unless the appliance stops working or causes a bad short circuit. 

However, identifying the signs of infestation can help you find out the issue beforehand and solve it:

  • Rodent dropping is a common sign. It will be 1-2 cm long and dark brown, like a raisin. When the dropping ages, it will turn white and dusty.
  • The walls and floors will have grubby marks suggesting that the rodent has been climbing and rubbing against them.
  • You can see rodent nests made from property materials, like wire insulation, food packaging, and paper.
  • They leave footprints and trails by their tails.
  • Watch for burrowing signs around your property. 
  • You can hear scratching, squealing, and skittering sounds nearby. 
  • You will suddenly experience power outages, tripped breakers, flickered lights, and failed appliances. 
  • Check the wires, and you will find bite marks. 
  • You spot a rodent chewing on the wires.

Techniques for repairing wire insulation 

If you have a rat or mouse infestation, you will see damaged insulation in the wires at one point. 

You should repair the wire insulation first to prevent the wires from contacting the wrong materials and causing serious damage. 

Here are some ways to fix wire insulation:

Method 1

If the wire damage is minor, stick an electrical tap over the exposed wire part and wrap it around. 

Peel the tape end from the roll and center it properly over the cable with the exposed wire. 

Press it well on the exposed section and wrap the tape tightly. 

The method is ideal for minor chewing. 

But you must replace the wire insulation if the rodents have damaged the cable badly. 

Remember that the electrical tape can wear out over time. 

So, replace it with a fresh layer regularly. 

Common wires whose insulation can be taken care of with electrical tape are phone or laptop chargers, power cables of electrical appliances, and headphone cords.

Method 2

First, look at the electrical wire closely and observe the damage level. 

If the inner wire is chewed, repair the wire before the insulation. 

If the wire is fine and only the insulation is chewed, slide a heat-shrink tube over the damaged insulation. 

Use a blow dryer to shrink the tubing over the wire and wrap the tubing with electrical tape.

Method 3

For heavy-duty appliance cords, paint liquid tape over the damaged insulation area. 

Let the liquid tape dry for some time. The product’s label will mention how much time you need to give the tape to dry out completely. 

Once the liquid has dried, wrap the liquid tape with regular electrical tape. 

Methods of splicing and reconnecting chewed wires 

If the wires are badly chewed, you may have to splice and reconnect the wires or buy new wires. 

If you can splice and reconnect the wires, here are two simple methods to do it:

Things required:

Step 1: Inspect the wire and plan things

Before planning anything, you should inspect the wire closely. 

If the chewed cord is too old, it will break eventually, even after the repair. 

In that case, replace the whole cord (Southwire 9703sw8808 16/3 3-Foot Power Supply Replacement Cord, Heavy Duty SJTW Weather Resistant Jacket, UL Listed, Black). 

Take help from a professional in cord replacement. 

If the rodent has chewed the cord near the cord end, close to the plug, cut the cord, and replace the plug (2xPCS 15 Amp 125 Volt, Straight Blade Plug, Plug, Straight Blade, Grounding, 3-Wire Male Extension Cord Replacement Electrical Plugs End, Black). 

If the chewed part is at the center, cut out the chewed area, and splice the two cords together. 

If the chewed part is close to the appliance, you should replace it. 

Read on if you need to splice and reconnect the wires.

Step 2: Cut, separate, and strip the wires

Find the chewed portion, cut it off, and plug off the cord with a wire stripper. 

Pull and separate the wires about 1-2 inches from the downside. 

Strip 1 inch from the two wires ending with a wire stripper. 

Twist the wire ends tightly, so they are no longer loose or frayed.

Create a loop on each wire by wrapping them around a screwdriver.

Step 3: Attach the plug

Open the replacement plug cover to access the prong terminals. 

Another plug option is Leviton Commercial and Residential Thermoplastic Polarized Plug 1 – 15P 20 – 16 AWG 2 Pole 2 Wire.

You need to remove a screw or slide off the cover for some plugs.

Loosen the screw on the large prong, loop the neutral wire around the screw, and tighten it. 

Repeat the same process with the other prong of the plug. 

Close the plug cover and install the screw.

Step 4: Splice the cord

Begin by cutting the chewed part from the cord with a wire stripper. 

First, put a small shrink tube over each wire and then a larger one over both wires.

Slide a 4-inch heat shrink tube (Gardner Bender ⅜ in. D Heat Shrink Tubing Black 3 pk) over one wire. 

Another heat shrink tube option is MCIGICM 127pcs Heat Shrink Tubing 2:1, Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit 7 Sizes.

Separate the wires 2 inches on the downside. 

Strip 2 inches from the end of the wire ends from all 4 wires with a wire stripper. 

Step 5: Solder seal wire connectors 

Slide Solder Seal wire connectors over one of the wires. 

For solder seal, try Kuject 12-PCS Solder SEal Wire connectors, Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Solder Sleeve Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals for Marine Automotive Boat Truck Wire Joint.

Twist the 2 matching wires together.

Shift the connector to the middle solder to align it with the middle of the splice. 

Step 6: Heat the solder ring

Use a heat gun and heat the middle solder ring to melt it. 

For a heat gun, try Wagner Spraytech 2417344 HT1000 Heat Gun Kit, 3 Nozzles Included, 2 Temp Settings 750°F & 1000°F, Great for Shrink Wrap, Soften Paint, Bend Plastic Pipes, Loosen Bolts and More.

Now, heat the other two rings to melt and shrink them. 

Rotate the connector to apply the heat evenly everywhere. 

Repeat the twisting process and melt with other wires. 

Step 7: Shrink the heat shrink tube

Use the heat gun to move the shrink tube over the connectors and apply heat to the tube until it shrinks properly. 

Rotate the cord, so apply the heat evenly. 

You can also use electrical tape instead of a heat shrink tube over the connectors to cover them. 

Safety precautions when repairing wire insulation 

Following certain safety precautions can help you in preventing electrocution and fire hazards. 

If you are repairing chewed wires yourself, here are some precautions you must follow:

  • The best way to prevent accidents is to turn off the breaker’s power and test for confirmation. Only shutting off the breaker won’t be enough as sometimes the appliance may have power due to the turned-on main panel. 
  • The electrical wiring will have an amp rating. While replacing the wires, check the amp rating of the circuit and then use the right wire size accordingly. For example, if you have a 20 amp circuit, you should use a 12-wire gauge. 
  • While splicing and reconnecting wires, make sure you make the connections tightly. Loose wires can contact the wrong materials or wires and cause fire hazards. 
  • Grounding and polarization are crucial. Grounding gives a safe path to current flow during short circuits, and polarization helps the current flow from the source through the hot wire and returns through the neutral wire.
  • It would be best to have an electrical or junction box, especially if you need to make a wire splicing. It will help secure the cables with cable clamps. 
  • Wear protective gear, like gloves, insulating sleeves, and safety glasses, and keep moisture away from you and the wires while working. 

Prevention tips to keep mice away from electrical wires 

Even if you can repair the chewed wires, you should perform preventive measures to keep the mice at bay. 

The best way to prevent them from chewing the electrical wires of your house is to stop them from entering or surrounding your house.

Common areas where rats and mice enter are:

  • Vents without hardware cloth
  • Spaces between the roof and framing.
  • Gaps in the weather stripping and under the garage doors
  • Ruptures in the bricks
  • The passage where the indoor wires lead outside and vice versa 

Below are some easy and effective preventive tips to keep mice away:

Seal your house 

Use caulk to seal every small opening around your house, especially the corners and cracks you cannot reach or never think of checking. 

If the opening is large, fill it with steel wool. 

Seal areas where the wire cables are going outside your house. 

Rodents can chew wires and make their way inside the house. 

Cover wires with steel

Covering wires with steel or hard plastic is a reasonable way to shield the wires. The mice won’t be able to chew them through. 

Use low-lying cords off the ground. Chewing is easier for the mice at the ground level.

Use deterrents or traps. 

Use traps to prevent the mice from eating your wires. 

For some people, traps are not an acceptable option. 

In that case, use special sonic deterrents to attract them to the traps.

Only mice can hear these deterrents so that humans and other domestic animals do not get disturbed.

Keep trash and food away.

The best way to keep rodents away is by keeping trash and food sources away. 

Remove the crumbs and clean your dishes immediately after eating. Clean your kitchen after making food. 

Do not leave any tissues, papers, or cardboard. 

Use locking trash bins to keep the rodents away from them. 

If the rodents fail to get any access, they will leave your house. 

Trim trees

Trees make it easier for the mice to reach your wires through the roof and attic.

Trim off the trees that make their way to your roof or attic to prevent them from entering your house and reaching the wires. 

Final thoughts 

It is annoying to see the wires getting chewed up by rats and mice. However, there are multiple ways to fix the chewed wires and their insulation. But, try to prevent this from further occurrence.

Hire professionals if you suspect rodents behind the damaged wires. They will examine the wiring problems and perform safe repairs by maintaining the local codes. Call pest deterrent professionals to get rid of rodents and prevent them from entering. 

Furthermore, attempt preventive measures to prevent mice infestation by sealing the entry points with caulk, protecting wires with hard plastic or steel, keeping the dishes and kitchen clean, and using deterrents.

Can mice chew through cement?

Mice and rats cannot chew through cement. They give up when they face concrete surfaces. So, setting electrical wires through cement is an effective way to stop rodents from causing any damage.

Why do mice chew wires?

Rats and mice chew wires to maintain their teeth, make their way through the obstruction, make nests, and receive food sources nearby.

Reference: Electrical Wiring Wikipedia, Home wiring Wikipedia.